Winter | Saveur

Hamantaschen

Betsy Andrews — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:38:52 +0000

Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Thu Buser

“My mother’s family is Jewish—but not that Jewish. My mother substituted her lapsed Hebrew in the holiday blessing with ‘hurrah for Hanukkah,’ and whatever I knew about Passover I learned from Cecil B. DeMille. I didn’t know what Purim was until I was nine and attended art classes at the Jewish youth center near our house in Philadelphia. In late winter, the drama students put on a play wherein the evil Haman bribes the king of Persia to allow him to kill the Jews. Luckily, the king’s favorite wife, Esther, outs herself as Jewish. In a stunning reversal, the king orders Haman hanged, and Persian Jews are saved and a day is set aside for feasting. Forthwith, we children were served cookies—jam- and poppy seed-filled triangles—representing, we were told, Haman’s three-cornered hat.

The cookies I knew. They were hamantaschen. My grandmother made delectable jewel-like versions year-round; they blew the youth center’s dry, cakey ones away. Grandma Syl’s flaky cream cheese pastry was shaped into tiny triangles framing sweet dollops of her homemade raspberry and apricot-pineapple jams. As I’ve learned, Purim also calls for mishloach manot, or ‘sending portions’—giving baskets of sweets to friends and relatives. I may not be the most observant of Jews, but with my Grandma Syl’s fantastic recipe in hand, this is one ritual I can master.” —Betsy Andrews

Featured in the SAVEUR 100 in the January/February 2013 issue.

Makes: 45 cookies

Time: 1 hour 45 minutes

Ingredients

8 oz. cream cheese, softened
16 Tbsp. unsalted butter, softened
½ cup sugar
2 tsp. vanilla extract
½ tsp. kosher salt
2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
¼ cup apricot preserves
¼ cup raspberry preserves
2 large egg whites, beaten

Instructions

In a medium bowl using an electric mixer, beat the cream cheese, butter, sugar, vanilla, and salt on medium speed, scraping down the bowl halfway, until fluffy, about 3 minutes. Beat in the flour. Form the dough into a thin disk, wrap in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
Transfer the dough to a floured surface and roll to a thickness of ⅛ inch. Using a 2½-inch round cookie cutter dipped in flour, cut out dough rounds. Gather the scraps, re-roll, and cut the dough until you have 30 rounds. Place about ½ teaspoon of the preserves (use the apricot on half and the raspberry on half) in the center of each round. Brush the edges with the egg whites, then fold in the edges to form a triangular shape, leaving a small opening at the top. Tightly pinch the corners to ensure the dough is sealed. Divide the cookies between 2 parchment-lined baking sheets and refrigerate for 30 minutes. Gather the remaining dough scraps, wrap them in plastic, and refrigerate.
Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F. One baking sheet at a time (leave the other sheet in the fridge), bake the chilled cookies until lightly browned, 16–18 minutes. Set the baking sheet aside to cool for 5 minutes, then transfer the cookies to a wire rack to cool completely.
While the first batch bakes, continue to roll and cut the remaining dough (you should get another 15 rounds), alternating topping with ½ teaspoon of the apricot or raspberry preserves. Shape the rounds into triangles, tightly pinching the corners, and transfer to the cooled baking sheet, then refrigerate for 30 minutes. Bake and cool according to the above instructions.

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Mrs. Barrenger’s Marmalade

Paul Richardson — Wed, 11 Feb 2026 20:27:24 +0000

Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Jason Schreiber

This recipe is adapted from author Paul Richardson’s grandmother, Hilda Marion Josephine Barrenger. “Her marmalade—not orange marmalade, which sounds like a tautology to my British ears—was a family tradition, passed down from her own mother during the First World War,” he writes. Richardson makes it using the bitter oranges that grow on his farm in western Spain. He also adds lemons, which bring a puckering liveliness to this traditional preserve.

Should you be blessed with unwaxed fruit, skip step 1. The jars, lids, ladle, and funnel must be sterilized; to do this in your dishwasher, run them on the hottest cycle, then keep the door closed until you’re ready to use them. While marmalade has a number of uses in the kitchen—Richardson’s mother topped her suet pudding with marmalade, and it makes an inspired addition to barbecue sauce or an excellent filling for thumbprint cookies—it’s at its simple best on hot buttered toast.

Featured in “The Marmalade Lesson” in the Fall/Winter 2025 issue. See more recipes and stories from Issue 205.

Makes: Nine 8-oz. jars

Time: 10 hours 30 minutes

Ingredients

2 lb. Seville oranges (about 12–16)
3 medium lemons
6 cups sugar

Instructions

Bring a large, nonreactive pot of water to a boil. Working in batches, lower the citrus into the water for 10–15 seconds. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a cutting board. Once cool, under warm running water, use a kitchen towel to scrub off the wax coating.
Pour out the water and place a fine-mesh strainer over the pot. Halve each fruit on the equator, then squeeze over the strainer, reserving the spent halves. Wrap the seeds in cheesecloth, tie with twine, and place in the pot with the juice.
Thinly slice the spent halves and transfer to the pot. Add 12 cups of cool water and set aside at room temperature for 6–12 hours.
Place a saucer in the freezer. Bring the pot to a boil, then turn the heat to low and simmer until the peels are soft and nearly translucent, about 2 hours.
Add the sugar and continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until the sugar is dissolved, 5–10 minutes. Turn the heat to medium-high and boil, stirring frequently, until the boiling slows and the mixture darkens and sets, 45 minutes–2 hours. To test for a good set, onto the chilled saucer, ladle a little of the hot liquid. After 2 minutes, push the edge with a fingertip; if it wrinkles, the marmalade is ready. If not, return the saucer to the freezer and test again every 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir well.
Using a funnel or ladle, fill nine sterilized, dried 8-ounce jars with the marmalade, stopping ¼ inch from the rim. Using a clean kitchen towel, wipe the rims. Top with the lids, then tightly screw on the ring bands. Invert the jars for 2 minutes, then flip right side up. Set aside undisturbed for 24 hours; if canned properly, a vacuum seal will form. (The marmalade will keep in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.)

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Gogl-Mogl

Joan Nathan — Mon, 22 Dec 2025 16:18:16 +0000

Photo: Tristan deBrauwere • Food Styling: Kat Craddock

Gogl-mogl is a fanciful alliterative name for an old shtetl standby. Similar to eggnog but lighter, the drink was embraced in Eastern European Jewish communities as a cure-all long before commercial cough syrups became widely available. Over time, as Jewish immigrants settled in the U.S., Fox’s U-Bet chocolate syrup found its way into the mix. This version comes from the old country by way of Crown Heights, Brooklyn; to make it nonalcoholic, skip the brandy.

Featured in the Fall/Winter 2025 issue. See more recipes and stories from Issue 205.

Makes: 2

Time: 10 minutes

Ingredients

2 large egg yolks
2 tsp. sugar, or to taste
1 Tbsp. brandy, schnapps, or other eau de vie (optional)
1 Tbsp. chocolate syrup (optional)
1 cup lukewarm whole milk, or milk alternative
Ground cinnamon, for dusting (optional)

Instructions

To a small bowl, add the egg yolks and sugar, followed by the brandy and chocolate syrup if desired. Using a whisk or hand mixer, beat until pale and frothy, 3–5 minutes. Gradually add the milk and continue beating until light and creamy. Divide between two glasses, dust with cinnamon if desired, and serve immediately.

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Beef Bourguignon

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:50:06 +0000

Photo: Tristan deBrauwere • Food Styling: Fatima Khamise

A good-quality pinot noir from Burgundy, France, with its brisk acidity and earthy notes, acts as both a flavor enhancer and tenderizer in this iconic French dish layered with tender beef and mushrooms, meaty bacon, and seared carrots and pearl onions.

Featured in the March 2014 issue.

Order the SAVEUR Selects Enameled Cast Iron 4½-Quart Braiser.

Makes: 6–8

Time: 3 hours

Ingredients

5 black peppercorns
1 bay leaf
1 parsley sprig, plus 2 Tbsp. coarsely chopped leaves, for garnish
1 thyme sprig
4 lb. beef chuck, cut into 2-in. pieces
One 750-ml bottle burgundy
6 oz. slab bacon, cut into ¼-in.-thick batons
¼ cup plus 1 Tbsp. olive oil, divided
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
2 medium carrots, cut crosswise into 1-in. pieces
⅓ cup all-purpose flour
2 cups beef stock
3 Tbsp. unsalted butter
12 pearl onions, peeled
1 lb. white button mushrooms, quartered
Country bread, for serving

Instructions

To a square of cheesecloth, add the peppercorns, bay leaf, parsley sprig, and thyme sprig, and tie into a tight bundle with twine. Transfer to a large bowl and add the beef and burgundy. Cover with plastic wrap and chill for 8 hours.
Remove the beef from the marinade and pat completely dry with paper towels. Set aside. Reserve the marinade and herb bundle.
To a large pot over medium-high heat, add the bacon and 2 tablespoons plus 1½ teaspoons of the oil. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the bacon is slightly crisp, about 8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a medium bowl.
Season the beef with salt and black pepper. Working in batches, add the beef to the pot and cook, turning as needed, until browned all over, 6–8 minutes per batch. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the beef to the bowl with the bacon.
Add the garlic and carrots to the pot and cook until the garlic is soft and fragrant, about 2 minutes. Stir in the flour and cook until the mixture starts to turn golden, about 3 minutes. Add the stock and the reserved marinade, herb bundle, beef, and bacon and bring to a boil. Turn the heat to medium-low, cover, and cook until the meat breaks apart easily when pierced with a fork, about 2 hours.
To a large skillet over medium heat, add the butter and remaining oil. When the butter is melted and the mixture is hot, add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until pale golden and softened, about 10 minutes. Add the mushrooms and cook until golden, about 10 minutes more. Scrape the onions and mushrooms into the stew.
Ladle the stew into shallow bowls and garnish with the chopped parsley. Serve with bread on the side.

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Coffee-Crusted Beef Tenderloin

Robert Del Grande — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:50:25 +0000

Maura McEvoy

One Christmas morning in the mid-1990s, chef Robert Del Grande spilled coffee grounds all over the cutting board he was about to use for the day’s roasts—and he decided to just go with it. “He thought back on a conversation he’d once had with a friend about the meaty quality of coffee,” wrote Margo True in a November 2006 story about Del Grande’s Café Annie in Houston. “In a second, he was rolling the filets in the coffee. The ground beans formed a rich, unctuous crust.” Today the place is called The Annie Café & Bar, but Del Grande remains its executive chef and the coffee-crusted tenderloin beef is still on the menu.

Featured in “Coming Home to Café Annie” by Margo True in the November 2006 issue.

Makes: 8

Time: 1 hour 45 minutes

Ingredients

4 guajillo chiles, stemmed and seeded
2 ancho chiles, stemmed and seeded
4 garlic cloves
2 canned chipotle chiles in adobo
½ small white onion, finely chopped
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided
2 Tbsp. light brown sugar
2 Tbsp. red wine vinegar
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
One 2-lb. beef tenderloin roast, tied with twine at ½-in. intervals
3 Tbsp. very finely ground coffee
1 Tbsp. cocoa powder
Ground cinnamon

Instructions

In a large skillet over medium heat, toast the guajillo and ancho chiles, turning occasionally, until fragrant, 4–5 minutes. Transfer to a medium bowl, cover with warm water, and set aside to soak until softened, 20–25 minutes.
In a blender, purée the garlic, chipotles, onion, softened chiles, and 1 cup of the soaking liquid.
Make the chile sauce: To a small pot over medium-high heat, add 2 tablespoons of the oil. When it’s hot and shimmering, add the chile mixture, turn the heat to low, and cook, stirring frequently, until thickened but still pourable, about 30 minutes. Add the brown sugar and vinegar and continue cooking, stirring frequently, until thickened to a loose paste, 12–14 minutes more. Season to taste with salt and black pepper, remove from the heat, and set aside to cool to room temperature.
Meanwhile, position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 400°F. Rub the roast with the remaining oil, season generously with salt and black pepper, and brush all over with 2 tablespoons of the chile sauce (reserve any remaining sauce for another use).
In a large bowl, stir together the coffee, cocoa powder, and a pinch of cinnamon, then roll the roast in the mixture to coat. Transfer to a large rimmed baking sheet fitted with a wire rack and set aside to marinate for 30 minutes.
Bake for 15 minutes, then turn the temperature to 225°F. Continue baking until a thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the roast reads 120°F for rare, 12–14 minutes more. Set aside at room temperature to rest for 15 minutes, then cut away and discard the twine, slice the meat against the grain, and serve.

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Standing Rib Roast With Black Currant Port Glaze

Kellie Evans — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:40:23 +0000

Maura McEvoy

This crowd-pleasing rib roast was inspired by former SAVEUR test kitchen director Kellie Evans’ days as a film and television caterer—a job that required feeding many hungry people. Finished with a sweet-and-sour black currant port glaze, it makes an impressive presentation for any festive occasion.

Featured in “A Roasty, Toasty, Creamy, Meaty, Crowd-Pleasing Late-Winter Feast” by SAVEUR Editors in the March 2015 issue.

Makes: 6–8

Time: 2 hours 30 minutes

Ingredients

One 8-lb. bone-in beef rib roast
8 medium garlic cloves, halved
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 Tbsp. unsalted butter
1 large shallot, finely chopped
2 cups ruby port
1 cup black currant preserves
2 Tbsp. red wine vinegar
3 Tbsp. vegetable oil

Instructions

Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F. Using a paring knife, make 16 incisions, about ½ inch deep, all over the roast and insert the garlic. Generously season the meat with salt and black pepper.
Make the glaze: In a small pot over medium-high heat, melt the butter. When the foam begins to subside, add the shallot and cook, stirring frequently, until translucent and soft, 4–6 minutes. Add the port and bring to a boil, then turn the heat to medium-low and cook, stirring occasionally, until the liquid is reduced by a third, 6–8 minutes. Stir in the preserves and vinegar, season to taste with salt and black pepper, and cook until smooth and syrupy, 3–5 minutes more. Remove from the heat.
To a large cast iron skillet over high heat, add the oil. When it’s hot and shimmering, add the roast and sear, using tongs or two large forks to turn it occasionally, until browned all over, 10–12 minutes. Position the roast bone-side down in the skillet and bake, basting with the glaze every 15–20 minutes, until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the meat reads 120°F, about 1 hour and 15 minutes for rare. Set aside to rest for 20 minutes.
Carve and serve with the remaining glaze on the side.

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Glühwein

Mimi Sheraton — Sat, 20 Dec 2025 23:43:02 +0000

Photo: Tristan deBrauwere • Food Styling: Fatima Khamise

Cinnamon is an essential ingredient in this German mulled wine, whose name translates to “glow wine.” This glühwein recipe is adapted from The German Cookbook by Mimi Sheraton.

Featured in the October 2009 issue.

Makes: 4

Time: 20 minutes

Ingredients

One 750-ml bottle medium-bodied red wine, such as zweigelt
½ cup sugar
Five 4-in. cinnamon sticks, divided
2 lemon slices studded with 4 cloves each, plus 4 lemon wedges for serving

Instructions

To a medium pot over medium heat, add the wine, sugar, a cinnamon stick, and the clove-studded lemon slices. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the mixture comes to a boil, then remove from the heat. Discard the cinnamon stick and lemon slices.
Ladle the mulled wine into four glasses and garnish each with a cinnamon stick and lemon wedge. Serve hot.

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Ragoût de Boulettes et Pattes (Stewed Meatballs and Pork Trotter Gravy)

Rita Trudel — Tue, 16 Dec 2025 20:07:52 +0000

Michael Abril

This hearty stew of meatballs and pork trotter gravy, usually served with plain boiled or mashed potatoes, is a staple on réveillon tables across Quebec. The recipe makes use of épices mélangées, or mixed spices, a traditional Quebecois blend that infuses many of the province’s traditional dishes with their signature flavor. You can add leftover épices mélangées to stews, sprinkle them on roasted vegetables, or use them to season poultry or pork. —Chantal Martineau

Featured in “In Montreal and New Orleans, A French Holiday Celebration Endures” by Chantal Martineau and Kayla Stewart in the Fall/Winter 2025 issue. See more recipes and stories from Issue 205.

Makes: 6–8

Time: 4 hours 30 minutes

Ingredients

For the gravy:

6 lb. pigs’ trotters (about 4)
3 Tbsp. finely chopped parsley leaves, plus more for garnish
2 bay leaves
1 large carrot, coarsely chopped
1 celery stalk, coarsely chopped
1 large onion, peeled and quartered

For the épices mélangées:

2 Tbsp. dried summer savory
1 Tbsp. dried sage
1 Tbsp. dried thyme
1 tsp. ground cinnamon
1 tsp. ground cloves
1 tsp. finely grated nutmeg

For the meatballs:

3 cups all-purpose flour
2 lb. ground pork
2 tsp. kosher salt
½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1 medium onion, finely chopped
Boiled or mashed potatoes, for serving

Instructions

Make the gravy: To a large pot, add the trotters, parsley, bay leaves, carrot, celery, onion, and enough cold water to cover. Bring to a boil, then turn the heat to medium-low and simmer until the cartilage is soft and the meat is nearly falling off the bone, 2–3 hours.
Remove from the heat, then set a fine-mesh strainer over a large bowl and strain the broth, reserving the trotters and broth. Discard the remaining solids. Cover the broth and refrigerate until chilled. Pull off and reserve any bits of meat from the trotters and discard the bones, skin, and cartilage. Cover the meat and refrigerate.
Meanwhile, make the épices mélangées: In a small bowl, stir together the savory, sage, thyme, cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg and set aside.
Make the meatballs: Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 400°F. Onto a parchment-lined baking sheet, spread the flour. Bake, stirring every 5 minutes, until the flour is copper brown and smells faintly toasty, 20–25 minutes. Set aside.
To a medium bowl, add the ground pork, salt, black pepper, onion, and 1 teaspoon of the reserved épices (save the rest in an airtight container for another use). Use your hands to mix well, then roll into 1½–2-tablespoon balls. Roll the balls in the toasted flour and transfer to a baking sheet. Set the remaining toasted flour aside.
Using a spoon, skim the fat from the chilled broth and discard, then pour the broth into a large pot and bring to a boil. Add the meatballs, turn the heat to medium-low, and simmer until the broth is thickened slightly and the meatballs are fully cooked, about 2 hours. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the meatballs to a plate and set aside.
Whisking continuously, sift ½ cup of the remaining browned flour 1 tablespoon at a time into the cooking liquid. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat to simmer and cook until the gravy thickens, about 10 minutes. Stir in the meatballs along with any accumulated juices and the reserved trotter meat. Top with parsley and serve hot, with boiled or mashed potatoes on the side.

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Tourtière du Lac-Saint-Jean (Quebecois Meat Pie)

Josée Martineau — Tue, 16 Dec 2025 20:06:26 +0000

Photo: Heami Lee • Food Styling: Jason Schreiber

Typical versions of Quebec’s beloved meat pie are made with ground pork and beef or veal, but different regions throughout the province make their own local styles. This hearty tourtière from Saguenay–Lac-Saint-Jean, is made with three types of meat and potatoes, cubed and seasoned with parsley and plenty of black pepper. While the standard meats are common inclusions, wild game, including elk, bison, and hare, may also be used. If using game birds or rabbit, be sure to opt for leg cuts rather than breasts or loins, which can dry out when overcooked. You may also substitute a premade pie crust—you’ll need at least 32 ounces of dough. The pie is often served with sweet-tart homemade ketchup; if using store-bought, look for a well-seasoned one with a coarse texture. —Chantal Martineau

Makes: 10–12

Time: 9 hours

Ingredients

For the crust:

3¾ cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
1 Tbsp. plus 1½ tsp. sugar
1½ tsp. fine salt
18 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cubed and chilled

For the tourtière:

3 lb. stew meat (a combination of pork, beef, veal, or wild game), cut into 1-in. chunks
3 small onions, coarsely chopped
4½ lb. Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-in. cubes
1 Tbsp. dried parsley
2 tsp. fine salt
1½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1½ tsp. cups beef stock
Whole milk, for brushing
Ketchup, preferably homemade, for serving

Instructions

Make the crust: In a large bowl, stir together the flour, sugar, and salt. Using a pastry blender, two forks, or your fingers, incorporate the butter until pea-size crumbles form. Drizzle in a ½ cup of ice-cold water, gently working the mixture into a shaggy dough with visible butter streaks. If the dough is too dry, add an additional teaspoon or 2 of water, tossing gently, just until the dough holds together in a solid mass when gently squeezed. Gather into a ball, divide it in half, and flatten into two 1-inch-thick rectangles. Wrap each in plastic and refrigerate for at least 1 hour, or up to 48 hours (or freeze for up to 3 months).
Retrieve the dough from the fridge and set aside until soft enough to roll, about 15 minutes. On a lightly floured surface, roll one dough piece out to a 12- by 16-inch rectangle. Roll the second piece out to a 10- by 14-inch rectangle. Transfer the larger rectangle into a 9- by 13-inch baking dish, pressing it to line the bottom and sides of the dish. Set the other rectangle aside.
Make the tourtière: In a large bowl, toss together the meat and onions. Layer half of the meat mixture on top of the crust, followed by half of the potatoes. Sprinkle with half of the parsley, salt, and black pepper, then repeat with the remaining meat mixture, potatoes, and seasoning. Pour in the beef stock, then cover with the reserved dough, pinching and tucking the edges to seal. Cover and refrigerate until the dough is firm and filling is chilled, at least 6 hours, or up to 24 hours.
Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat to 275°F. Brush the top crust with milk, then cut several small vents in the center. Place on a large rimmed baking sheet and bake until the juices are bubbling and thickened and the top is deep brown, 7½–8½ hours. Set aside for at least 30 minutes before slicing and serving with ketchup.

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The Ultimate Crab Dip

Victor Riquelme — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:43:04 +0000

William Hereford

Known as chupe de centolla, this Chilean crab gratin borders on a cheesy crab dip. While similar South American chupe are always prepared with milk-soaked bread and any combination of shrimp, scallops, shellfish, meats, and cheeses, this version adapted from chef Victor Riquelme in Patagonia relies solely on the massive local king crabs, the hallmark of fishermen’s kitchens along Chile’s southernmost coast.

Featured in “The Epic Food and Landscape of Patagonia” by Adam Leith Gollner in the Summer 2016 issue.

Makes: 2–4

Time: 35 minutes

Ingredients

1 cup crustless white bread cubes
⅔ cup whole milk
1½ tsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 tsp. oregano leaves, finely chopped
⅓ cup finely chopped onion
11 oz. king or snow crabmeat, coarsely shredded (about 22 oz. in-shell)
2 Tbsp. heavy cream
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
⅓ cup grated Grana Padano cheese
Toasted country bread, for serving

Instructions

Position a rack in the upper third of the oven and preheat the broiler. Place a small cast iron skillet over low heat while you prepare the crab.
To a blender, add the bread and milk and soak for 5 minutes, then process to a purée. Place a fine-mesh strainer over a small bowl and strain the mixture. Set aside.
In a small pot over medium-low heat, warm the oil. Add the oregano and cook until just fragrant and beginning to sizzle, about 2 minutes. Add the onion and continue cooking until translucent and beginning to soften, 5–6 minutes more. Stir in the crab and reserved milk mixture until thoroughly combined and warm. Remove from the heat and fold in the heavy cream. Season to taste with salt and black pepper.
Transfer the crab mixture to the prepared skillet and top evenly with the Grana Padano. Broil until the cheese is melted and browned, about 5 minutes. Set aside to rest for 5 minutes, then serve with country bread.

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Pizza con le Puntarelle Alla Romana

Katie Parla — Thu, 30 Oct 2025 17:56:26 +0000

Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Thu Buser

Puntarelle—the crunchy, bitter chicory that dominates Roman produce stands in winter—isn’t just for salads. When paired with pizza, it brings all the punch of the anchovy-laced dressing to a crispy, cheesy canvas, bridging two of Rome’s most beloved culinary obsessions: pizza and bitter flavors. The base is thin and crisp, the cheese modest, and the vegetables raw and dressed, layered on post-bake so their texture and flavor remain intact. This is Roman food at its most elemental: salty, sharp, satisfying.

Featured in “How to Cook With Puntarelle, the Bitter Green Romans Can’t Live Without” by Katie Parla.

Makes: Four 12-inch pizzas

Time: 1 day 2 hours

Ingredients

For the dough:

⅛ tsp. active dry yeast
3 cups bread flour, plus more for dusting
2 tsp. kosher salt
1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for greasing and brushing
8 oz. fresh mozzarella, torn or cut into ½-in. pieces, divided

For the puntarelle alla Romana:

1 lb. 5 oz. puntarelle, or frisée
6 oil-packed anchovy fillets
1 garlic clove, smashed with the side of a knife
3 Tbsp. red or white wine vinegar, plus more to taste
¼ cup plus 1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
Flaky salt and freshly ground black pepper

Instructions

Make the dough: In a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook, stir together the yeast and 1 cup of cold water. Set aside until the yeast has dissolved, about 15 minutes. Add the flour and mix on low until the dough mostly comes together into a dry ball, about 3 minutes. Add the salt and mix on medium, adding up to 3 tablespoons of water if the dough looks dry, until a smooth and elastic ball forms, about 4 minutes. Mix in the oil. Cover and set aside at room temperature for 30 minutes.
Grease a baking sheet with oil. Turn out the dough onto a lightly floured surface. Using a dough scraper or knife, cut it into 4 pieces weighing about 6 ounces each. Working with one piece at a time, pull one corner and fold it into the top of the dough, pressing lightly and taking care not to flatten it. Repeat with the other 3 corners. The dough will tighten up into a round. Flip the dough seam-side down on an unfloured surface. Cup your hands around it and gently pull it toward you, using the resistance of the countertop to create tension on the dough surface. Rotate the dough a quarter turn, then pull it toward you again. Repeat this motion—pulling and turning—until the dough tightens into a smooth, round ball. Repeat with the remaining pieces. Place the dough balls on the greased baking sheet, brush lightly with oil, and cover the baking sheet with plastic. Refrigerate for 24 hours.
Three hours before baking, retrieve the dough from the fridge and set aside at room temperature, covered. It will rise slightly as it warms. Place a baking steel or stone in the top third of the oven and preheat the broiler.
Meanwhile, make the puntarelle alla Romana: Fill a medium bowl with water and ice. Strip away the outer leaves of the puntarelle and reserve for another use. Separate the inner stalks and trim off the fibrous ends. Slice the stalks into thin strips and drop them into the ice water. Set aside until curled, about 1 hour. (Alternatively, if using frisée, coarsely chop it before adding it to the ice water.)
In a mortar and pestle, mash the anchovies and garlic into a paste. Whisk in the vinegar, then very gradually whisk in the oil to create a creamy dressing.
Drain the puntarelle, pat it dry, and transfer to a medium bowl. Add the dressing and toss to coat. Season to taste with salt, black pepper, and more vinegar.
Lightly flour a work surface. Using flat fingertips, gently press one dough ball into a 6-inch round. Lightly flour the top. Using a rolling pin, roll from the center outward, applying gentle, even pressure. Rotate a quarter turn and continue rolling, rotating after each roll and dusting with flour as needed, until you have a 12-inch round that’s about one-sixteenth-inch thick.
Transfer the dough to a lightly floured pizza peel. Top evenly with 2 ounces of the mozzarella. Slide the pizza onto the steel or stone and turn the oven to 500°F. Bake until the crust is crisp and the cheese is melted, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board and cut into slices. Top evenly with a quarter of the puntarelle and serve immediately. Leaving the oven at 500°F, repeat with the remaining dough balls, cheese, and puntarelle.

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