Right now I’m relishing all the signs of spring that I can eat. Asparagus and ramps are finally at the local farmers markets, rhubarb is on the way, and I just stumbled upon green almonds yesterday—a sight that perked me up more than any amount of caffeine possibly could.

If you’ve never had them, green almonds are fuzzy orbs filled with skinless jelly-like almonds—soft and delicately nutty with a wholly different texture than fully mature almonds. When fresh, they can be eaten whole. They’re crunchy, tart, and reminiscent of unripe peaches (in a good way!). When the outer layer is removed, the young almonds are delicate, milky, and subtly floral and grassy.

Leave a green almond on a tree and it loses its fuzz, hardens, and turns brown. Crack the hard outer shell and you’ll find a conventional, crunchy almond you’re likely very familiar with. (Fun fact: Botanically speaking, almonds aren’t nuts. They’re actually stone fruits, and the almonds we all snack on are the seeds within the stones of the fuzzy green fruit.)

Where to Buy Green Almonds

Green almonds typically pop up at farmers markets and specialty stores in early spring but only stick around for a few weeks, so they’re an extra special treat if you can find them. (Here in New York City, they’re available at Eataly, Kalustyan’s, and Sahadi’s.) They can be stored in the fridge for up to three weeks, but you’ll want to be sure to taste them as time passes; the longer they sit, the more likely it is their outer husks will harden and turn bitter, in which case you’ll need to discard them and only eat the tender stones inside.

How to Eat Green Almonds

Green almonds are super versatile. I love eating them whole, pressed into flaky sea salt. I also love them with cheese and cured meats. You can chop them up and toss them into salads, or make a chunky, pesto-y sauce by mixing them with herbs, garlic chives or green garlic, and olive oil (spoon this over asparagus, eggs, or fish). Pickle them, even!

They’re good on sweet things, too. A simple dessert could be some dates, green almonds, and flaky sea salt. Tarts and ice cream can benefit from some chopped green almonds sprinkled on top.

I’m also obsessed with pairing green almonds with ricotta and honeycomb, a tip I picked up from London chefs Clare Lattin and Tom Hill’s cookbook Ducksoup. And one of my all-time favorite ways to eat them is poached in olive oil and showered in fresh dill. I first tried them this way at a restaurant in Istanbul and immediately asked for the recipe, which I’ve been using ever since.

Recipe: Olive Oil-Poached Green Almonds With Dill

Get the recipe >

The post How to Cook With Green Almonds—a Fleeting Taste of Spring appeared first on Saveur.

A rare spring treat, green almonds are the fuzzy, crunchy, tart, immature fruit of the almond tree. Though they can be enjoyed raw, simmering green almonds in olive oil, orange juice, and aromatics mitigates their slightly bitter exterior, transforming them into a delectable cocktail party snack. This recipe is adapted from the now-shuttered Lokanta Maya in Istanbul.

Featured in “How to Cook With Green Almonds—A Fleeting Taste of Spring.”

The post Olive Oil-Poached Green Almonds With Dill appeared first on Saveur.

It’s easy to get overwhelmed by all the products available in any given store. It’s also easy to get duped into buying products that aren’t actually that good, or that have a bunch of junk in their ingredients lists. I am a firm believer that good cooking starts with using good ingredients, period. (Pro tip: If you have the best ingredients you can get, you don’t have to do all that much to make a delicious meal!) To avoid mixing perfect seasonal produce with bad, or even mediocre, oil, cream, butter, or whatever else, I spend a lot of time reading labels and testing products, but if you want a quick and easy guide to the very best things to keep in your pantry, I highly recommend the “My Larder” section of Six Seasons.

McFadden makes stocking a high-quality pantry dead simple. He lists what he uses, tells us why he likes the producers or the products, where to get them, and how to best store them. He even gives options at multiple price ranges, which is particularly helpful in the olive oil and vinegar departments (he’s got his favorites, but also gives a lot of choices here).

Even if you don’t cook from the book, take McFadden’s suggestions and stock up on the ingredients he mentions—it’ll mean an automatic upgrade to whatever you cook, bake, and eat. After trying his favorite KATZ vinegars, I’m hooked. I was excited to read about Wild Planet and American Tuna, two companies focused on more sustainable tuna fishing. I’ve been a fan of Rancho Gordo beans (which he’s also a fan of), but I’m looking forward to trying some things from Zürsun Idaho Heirloom Beans, too.

After reading the larder section, I really wanted to talk to McFadden about ingredients in general. The larder section in the book is a great start, but I wanted to know what else he liked. Thanks to Travel Portland, I got to spend some time with McFadden at a dreamy shop I wish was in New York (and that I really wish I owned!), called Providore. Below are some of his suggestions for what every larder needs.

McFadden’s Larder Stocking Starter Kit:

Diamond Kosher Salt (This is also what the Saveur Test Kitchen prefers)
Jacobsen Salt
Tellichery Peppercorns from Reluctant Trading
and a Pepper Mill from Fletchers Mill
Olive Oil and Vinegar from KATZ
Dried Beans from Rancho Gordo or Zursun Idaho
Grains from Anson Mills
Flours from Hayden Mills
Red Boat Fish Sauce
Colatura

The post Pantry Essentials: How to Stock Your Larder like Joshua McFadden appeared first on Saveur.

When it comes to salads, you may pay lots of attention to what greens you want to use and how your ingredients pair with each other, but when it comes to dressing, who really thinks that final stage through? I thought I cared about salads a lot more than the average person, but then I happened upon pages 54 and 55 in Six Seasons, dedicated to dressing a salad, and I realized that Joshua McFadden maybe cares the most. He’s got some strong opinions, and a very different technique for dressing. And, most importantly, if you take his advice, your salads will never be the same (in the best way ever).

It’s pretty common to rely on a standard ratio of oil to acid for a salad dressing, and then mix it all together and think that that’s all there is to a salad. But, as page 54 in Six Seasons makes clear: That is not all there is.

McFadden says he’s fanatic about dressing salads properly. He insists that a salad should be “crisp with texture,” “colorful and beautiful,” and that each ingredient should taste “exactly like itself…only better.” All salads really should meet these standards.

His technique was, for me, a revelation. McFadden starts by tossing mixed lettuces, whole herbs, and flower petals with the acid. He gives it a taste, then seasons with salt and pepper and tosses again. He says that “at this point, the salad should taste good enough to serve without extra-virgin olive oil.” Then he adds the oil, “thinking about what flavor it’s going to add.” After trying his method, I’m forever changed. I’ve used several types of acid, and it is always kind of amazing to get the greens to a delicious point without the oil, and to taste the difference once the oil’s been added.

Want more salad inspiration? Check out our favorite salad recipes here »

The post The Importance of Dressing Your Salad appeared first on Saveur.

I had a feeling I’d like Six Seasons, but I had no idea how much I’d truly love it. Or how much I’d learn from it, or what kind of impact it would have on my cooking in general. This book came out last May, and I still haven’t put it up on a shelf—it lives close at hand, because flipping through it is one of my favorite things to do.

Admittedly, I’m an easy target for this book: I’m crazy about produce and I don’t think there’s anything better than talking to and buying ingredients from a farmer. This is why I respect and admire the author, Joshua McFadden, the chef and owner of Ava Gene’s in Portland, Oregon. His appreciation for farmers is remarkable, and I wish all chefs took his “aggressively seasonal” approach to sourcing ingredients. Knowing he’s worked on a farm and that he’s very serious about supporting farmers, and having eaten his food, I was definitely going to give this book a chance.

There are several produce encyclopedia-type books in my collection, because I love that kind of thing, but none are as fun or lively as Six Seasons. This is the ideal book for getting people to support local farmers and to eat seasonally (which is my number one priority). It tells you how to pick and store vegetables, and then without ever being unapproachable or precious or boring, how to make them super delicious.

There’s a lot to love about this book, especially the voice in it. The “Words to Cook By” section is a great introduction to the person behind the book. He’s clearly a serious cook, but he’s also someone who loves cooking and wants to help other people love cooking, too. He’s very smart, but he’s also flexible and fun.

Check Out More From Saveur’s Cookbook Club

And McFadden decided not to give us any fussy techniques or super restaurant-y recipes. In the introduction, he says that a lot of the recipes in the book are served at the restaurant, but “the techniques and ingredients are mostly quite ordinary.” And the next line is key: “You’ll need to do some prepping and cooking and seasoning, but the soil and rain and sun will have done the rest for you. Embrace the seasons and good cooking will follow.” Yes to all of this.

I’ve never been disappointed by a recipe of his, and I’ve made quite a few from this book. I’m looking forward to cooking through it with everyone!

Join our Cookbook Club to follow along, and stay tuned for plenty of market tours and sage produce wisdom.

The post Cook Your Way Through Six Seasons, the September Cookbook Club Pick appeared first on Saveur.

I’ve always loved roses in a vase, but recently I’ve started to add them to just about everything I eat. I make a tea out of dried rose buds, ginger, and cinnamon, a combination that’s perfectly sweet, spicy, and comforting on a cold gloomy day, and I always keep plenty of rose products on hand. And with over 300 species of rose out there, there are plenty to plant and eat. They’re pretty and delicious, and, as I’ve found out, they have some interesting benefits and side effects.

I talked to Christine Buckley, an herbalist based in NYC, all about roses. The first important thing she notes about working with roses: They’re not all good to eat. Stick with the ones that smell good to you, and avoid the roses that don’t have any smell. Roses that live in the deli generally have a scent, but avoid these too; they were likely sprayed, and rule number one of working with roses is: Don’t eat them if they were sprayed.

Herbalists point to a number of benefits to eating roses. It acts as an anti-inflammatory, refrigerant, and decongestant. Buckley explains, “Medicinally, we use the entire plant, from root to thorn. All parts of it are wound healing: from external wounds to internal wounds to spiritual wounds (like a broken heart, for example).”

And what about rumors that roses are also aphrodisiacs? “It’s true, because it gets things going and opens the heart up. This is not to be confused with heating things up, that’s what ginger does,” says Buckley.

Mostly, roses help with immediate needs. Buckley mentions soothing a temper, comforting someone after a heart rate-raising event, or easing a burn. Because of this, she says it’s good to have some rose products on hand. Buckley suggests using petals in a quick and easy tea, mashing them into a honey, or adding them to butter.

Of course, you can buy roses already made in jams, spreads, and spice blends. A recent favorite of mine is the Rosey Harissa from New York Shuk. It’s perfect for adding spice and that distinct floral note to various dishes without going overboard on the rose. I asked co-founder Leetal Arazi about the product: “My fascinations with all things rose started when my grandmother would pick the most fragrant roses from our garden and every summer would make us a small jar of rose jam. That delicate flavor of real roses has stuck with me.

But I’ve also been keeping track of other ways I’ve seen roses used as an ingredient. On a trip to Italy last spring, I had the pleasure of visiting the Corte Bianca Franciacorta vineyard. Over lunch, I discovered a rose vinegar drizzled over toasts with goat cheese.

The petals can also be pickled. When you strain the petals from the vinegar, transfer them to a clean jar and keep them in the fridge (for up to a month). In the summer, they’re perfect over tomatoes and jalapenos with a little bit of oil and sea salt (John Karangis of Union Square Hospitality gave me this tip). Add them to shaved radish or fennel salads, or serve them on a cheese board.

For more involved recipes, I asked some chefs who I’ve seen use roses in their cookbooks or in their restaurants. They all praise rose as an ingredient, but are quick to warn that a little goes a long way. Chef Josef Centeno, of Baco in Los Angeles, says, “I love Middle Eastern and North African spices, and rose is used in blends such as ras el hanout and advieh. There’s nothing else like it. I use dried rose petals and powder sparingly and only in specific applications because of its floral intensity.”

Sam Smith of Tusk in Portland, Oregon, says “It’s an extremely versatile ingredient that can be used in both sweet and savory applications but, for me, cooking with rose, especially rose water, should be done with restraint. If too much is used, it can take over a dish and end up tasting more like perfume than something you would want to eat.” So take note: Always use a light hand when cooking with roses. And don’t be afraid to combine rose with other bold flavors, “I like rose balanced with pungent, salty, or sour flavors and aromas. I sometimes use dried rose petals in my pickled red onions,” Says Centeno.

For a fun, rosey breakfast, try the Marcona almond, coconut, and rosebud breakfast dukkah from Centeno’s book, Baco. I’ve made it several times and have given jars of it to friends (it’s a really good edible gift, FYI). Combine it with thick yogurt and a bit of honey, or sprinkle it over oats or porridge. “I think it’s the saltiness and fattiness of the Marcona almonds in the dukkah that complements the floral notes of the rose. So this nut-and-spice mix is a little sweet, salty, floral—and crunchy and a little rich—all at once. I also like their color, and use the dried petals (as opposed to powder) so that they also add a different texture when broken up with a pestle.”

Joshua McFadden, of Ava Gene’s in Portland, Oregon has a bright, refreshing cucumber and rose salad in his book Six Seasons. “Cucumbers and roses both peak around the same season (midsummer), and cucumbers also have a very floral aroma, so we thought they’d be delicious together. This salad recipe uses both rosewater and rose petals, but if you’re cooking with roses, a little goes a long way. Use too much and it can be very overpowering or even unpleasant.”

The lamb shoulder with rose and pistachios at Tusk is a slightly surprising (but still delicious!) way to use roses. I hadn’t seen that combination before, and decided to bug Sam Smith about it. Turns out it was actually inspired by the pistachios. “I took a lot of ingredients that I really love with pistachios, and put them all together in the same dish. Lamb and pistachio is a classic combination in Italy. And rose and pistachio are flavors that are commonly found in a lot of Middle Eastern dessert…So we put all of these elements together and it worked really well.” He shared the recipe, and you can be sure that it does work really well. It’s a bit time-consuming, but it’s worth the effort.

The post Why—And How—You Should Incorporate Roses In Your Diet appeared first on Saveur.

This simple method comes from the Corte Bianca Franciacortia vineyard in Italy, where they grow various types of roses as well as grapes for their exceptional sparkling wine. This vinegar takes on a vibrant pink color if you use darker rose petals. This vinegar is particularly great with goat cheese, fish, tomatoes and a bit of sea salt, or over strawberries. Make sure to reserve the pickled rose petals in a clean jar after straining the vinegar.

What You Will Need

• Large Glass Jar
• Bowl
• Fine Mesh Strainer

The post Rose Vinegar appeared first on Saveur.

The idea for this recipe comes from Christine Buckley, and NYC based herbalist. Rose butter is delightful on toast with cinnamon and honey, or on top of waffles and pancakes. You can bake into sugar cookies or scones, or spread on warm scones or muffins.

What You Will Need

• Wooden Spoon or Silicone Spatula
• Clean Container
• Plastic Wrap

The post Rose Butter appeared first on Saveur.

This recipe comes from Sam Smith of Tusk in Portland, Oregon. Smith notes: “I like to eat it with a steak knife, keep some texture.” Serve this with lots of bread for soaking up the juices; a simple mixed green salad with champagne vinegar, black pepper, and edible flowers if available; and a super cold rose or white wine.

What You Will Need

• Large Roasting Pan
• Small Bowl
• Butcher’s Twine
• Clean Plate
• Large Dutch Oven
• Parchment Paper
• Skewer
• Large Pot
• Cutting Board
• Serving Bowl

The post Braised Lamb Shoulder With Rose, Turnips, and Pistachios appeared first on Saveur.

This idea comes from Christine Buckley, an herbalist and food stylist in NYC. She suggests breaking the petals into very small pieces so you don’t have to decant the honey. The flecks or rose petals add texture and color and make it extra pretty. Use this any way you would use regular honey: in tea, on buttered toast, drizzled over fresh fruit or yogurt, or on anything else you’d like to add a floral sweetness to.

What You Will Need

• Wide-Mouth Glass Jar
• Wooden Spoon

The post Rose Honey appeared first on Saveur.

I’ve been doing personal butter research for years: Several years ago I had butter in Paris (of course) that stopped me in my tracks, and since then I’ve been trying to find anything else to measure up to it. I’ve done several taste tests, I’ve made butter (cultured and not) from every good local cream I could get my hands on, I pick up any new-to-me butter I see, and after all that, I am convinced that there is no better butter in the world than Le Beurre Bordier. Maybe I’m extra sensitive to good butter because I grew up with those spray bottles of the I Can’t Believe It’s Not stuff, but I know I’m not alone in my aggressive enthusiasm. Once you experience the Bordier jolt, you’re changed. You’re hooked.

I know plenty of people who’ve smuggled it back from trips to France, who ask people to smuggle it back for them, and who try to stretch out their contraband butter bricks for as long as possible (and I’ve done all of those things, too). I’ve even gone so far as having it overnighted from a friend in Paris. It’s that good. Bordier recently started popping up in a few restaurants in New York, and it’s now being sold at Le District in New York City’s Financial District, which means you no longer have to stress out about getting it through TSA.

What makes it so special? If you ask the man behind the butter, Jean-Yves Bordier, he’ll say something modest like, “I haven’t invented anything new, I use old methods that respect the land, the animals, and tradition.” Actually, he’s said exactly that—isn’t it delightful and vague and French-artisan-sounding? But the thing Mr. Bordier doesn’t seem to be aware of is that his product makes you look at butter in a completely new way. It’s not just a mildly flavored fat that’s fine on bread, or good to bake with, or extra tasty when it’s browned; it’s a completely special ingredient in it’s own right, this butter can be appreciated the way a good cheese is. It’s got so much character, the texture is noticeably elegant, and once you get some of his flavored butters, you realize this guy is like Willy Wonka for adults who like good food.

The importer who is bringing Bordier to New York sent me some up-close-and-personal intel from a recent visit to the Bordier workshop. Here’s what I’ve learned about how the best butter in the world is made.

It starts with the milk: Bordier only sources milk from local small farmers who use the best farming practices. The cows responsible for Bordier live lovely lives grazing on grass and flowers, and enjoying their environment (no overcrowded and unpleasant factory farms for these guys).

They take their time: A typical brick of butter is made 6 hours after the cow is milked. It takes Bordier three days. For a lot of that time, the cream is culturing and developing flavor.

They knead differently: Regular butter is made on a large scale, in a factory setting that produces a lot of product at high speed. Bordier has a special wooden machine (only one!) called a Malaxeur that the butter is kneaded through, at a slow speed, for a specific amount of time—kneading time depends on the season, but it can be as long as 30 minutes. They say it helps develop flavor and create a silky texture. After the Malaxeur, they use special grooved paddles to pound the butter, by hand, before forming it into the shapes requested by chefs for each individual order. The hand movements with the paddles are very specific (you can see Mr. Bordier do this here), and they say they do this to respect the texture.

Bordier butter has very noticeable seasonal differences. Summer butter is very yellow, because the cows are grazing on fresh grass and wildflowers which are high in beta carotene. Summer butter is silky and tender, and has pronounced savory aromas. Winter butter is pale, like an ivory yellow, because the cows are eating dried grasses. The texture is more granular and brittle, and winter butter is sweeter.

But it doesn’t matter what season it is. If you get your hands on this butter, you should stop to appreciate it. The time and effort that goes into it is completely unusual compared to industry standards, and you can tell when you taste it. Generously (and I mean very generously) slather it on bread, scoop it with radishes or any other crudite, melt it and drizzle it over pretty much any seafood, make the best caramel of your life with it. There are endless perfect ways to enjoy the most perfect butter.

The post Here’s Why Bordier Might Be the Best Butter in the World appeared first on Saveur.