Allie Lazar Archives | Saveur https://www.saveur.com/authors/allie-lazar/ Eat the world. Thu, 12 Dec 2024 01:51:06 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.8.2 https://www.saveur.com/uploads/2021/06/22/cropped-Saveur_FAV_CRM-1.png?auto=webp&width=32&height=32 Allie Lazar Archives | Saveur https://www.saveur.com/authors/allie-lazar/ 32 32 12 Dishes Every Traveler Should Eat in Buenos Aires https://www.saveur.com/culture/best-dishes-buenos-aires-argentina/ Thu, 12 Dec 2024 01:51:06 +0000 https://www.saveur.com/?p=175954&preview=1
Milanesa-style breaded cutlet on a plate with lemon wedges, served with fries, mashed squash, and a tomato-onion salad on a wooden table.
Laura Macías

A local reveals her top spots for golden milanesas, sizzling steaks, indulgent alfajores, and other Argentine essentials.

The post 12 Dishes Every Traveler Should Eat in Buenos Aires appeared first on Saveur.

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Milanesa-style breaded cutlet on a plate with lemon wedges, served with fries, mashed squash, and a tomato-onion salad on a wooden table.
Laura Macías
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Buenos Aires smells different on Fridays in my neighborhood of Chacarita. A familiar haze lingers in the air, my cue to slide open my balcony door and let the smoky scent of asado de obra—construction workers’ barbecue lunch—waft into my apartment. Down below, day laborers are busy digging into chorizos, morcillas, and flank steaks grilled right at the construction site, and the scent signals that the weekend is near. After 18 years’ living in Argentina, that unmistakable aroma still makes me crave something deeply, distinctly Argentine.

The Argentine capital overwhelms the senses. Porteños, as the locals are called, embody that chaotic energy, blending unfiltered passion (for sports, food, literature—you name it) with laid-back charm. The streets hum with café chatter, the blare of taxis, and voices “puteando”—cursing and shouting—in heated conversations accentuated by the dramatic sweep of Italian-looking hand gestures. 

The food culture thrives across its barrios—ingredient-driven kitchens in Chacarita, neighborhood bistros in Belgrano, timeworn institutions in San Telmo, and so much more—each with its own vibe and flavor. Despite the city’s size and economic challenges, it’s a joy to wander among the lively parrillas, bodegones (cantinas), bars, and cafés. 

Yet for all the noise and bustle, Buenos Aires food, for the most part, is simple and straightforward. Instead of complex spices, you’ll find hearty pastas, gluten-packed pastries, plates oozing with cheese or dulce de leche, and giant slabs of beef seasoned simply with salt. When Anthony Bourdain returned from Buenos Aires, he said, “I saw my first vegetable when I got back to New York and fell to my knees weeping with joy,” reflecting on the city’s meat obsession.

Bourdain had a point. While Buenos Aires is learning to embrace veggie-friendly options, its essential food groups are still meat, carbs, and fat—perfected. But that reality hasn’t deterred a new generation of risk-taking chefs from reimagining the classics: The gnocchis at Evelia and the ice cream at Obrador Florida are but two examples.

Still, narrowing down 12 essential dishes (and one standout spot for each) in Buenos Aires wasn’t easy. I started with over 36 iconic foods, trimmed it to 16, and polled thousands of Argentines to weigh in on what every traveler should try. The result? A guide to the city’s most beloved culinary treasures. ¡Buen provecho!

Parrillada at El Ferroviario Parrilla 

Avenida Reservistas Argentinos 219, Liniers
+54 9 11 3059-7666

Parrillada at El Ferroviario Parrilla

A true Argentine parrillada, or mixed grill, is an overflowing platter of charred steak cuts, sausages, and achuras (organ meats). The exact lineup varies with each parrilla (steakhouse) and parrillero (grillmaster), and at El Ferroviario—a sprawling, beloved local spot in an old railway station near the José Amalfitani Stadium—the parrillada is served on a massive wooden plank featuring an expertly grilled selection of the day’s best cuts. Diners can also opt for the parrilla libre, an all-you-can-eat spread of sweetbreads, chorizo stuffed with red pepper, grilled provoleta cheese, sirloin, suckling pig, and over a dozen other cuts. Efficient waitstaff in traditional gaucho attire weave through the bustling scene, serving more than 1,000 diners daily. It’s a spectacle of flavor and scale, best enjoyed with a group—and a reservation, as the wait can be as grand as the portions.

Empanadas at La Cocina

Avenida Pueyrredón 1508, Recoleta
Florida 142, Centro
+54 11 4825-3171

Empanadas at La Cocina

Empanadas are Argentina’s handheld anytime food, with each region imparting its own twist on these savory dough pockets. La Cocina brings a taste of the northwesterly Catamarca region with empanadas that stand apart for their thick, buttery dough, hearty stew-like fillings, and seasonings like paprika and cumin. While most shops rely on store-bought wrappers, La Cocina makes its dough from scratch, giving it a signature golden hue that’s earned the shop cult status. My favorite flavors? The classic chicken with green onions, potato, and hard-boiled egg; and the Pikachu, with cheese, sweet onions, and spicy chile flakes.

Honorable mention: Vecindá specializes in meat-free empanadas baked in a wood-fired oven. Don’t be surprised to spot famous Argentine musicians and actors at sidewalk tables on this trendy Chacarita corner, savoring two favorite Porteño pastimes: empanada eating and people watching.

Choripán at Nuestra Parrilla

Bolivar 950, San Telmo

Choripán at Nuestra Parrilla

Choripán gets its name from its two components: chorizo (pork sausage) and pan (bread). It’s a no-frills combo that’s legendary for good reason. Each bite is a satisfying blend of smoky, fatty, tangy flavors, and it’s handheld, making it an iconic street food staple. At Nuestra Parrilla (aka Lo de Freddy) in the San Telmo Market, the juicy chorizo gets butterflied and grilled until crisp around the edges, then tucked into a crusty roll and topped with garlicky chimichurri. Diners can slather on homemade sauces from jars on the bar, such as salsa criolla, more (red or green) chimichurri, and homemade hot sauce—a rarity in this spice-averse city. Family-owned and run by Freddy and his kids since 2001, this hole-in-the-wall is a beloved neighborhood favorite. 

Milanesas at Bar Oriente

Avenida Álvarez Thomas 1800, Villa Ortúzar
+54 11 4554-5688

Milanesas at Bar Oriente

A milanesa is more than just a breaded cutlet in Argentina—it’s a cultural mainstay. Similar to cotoletta alla milanese or schnitzel, this crisp-fried beef or chicken dish, brought over by Italian immigrants, has become a staple of everyday life. Order it a la napolitana, topped with tomato sauce, ham, and cheese; tucked into a sandwich with fixings of your choosing; or, in some places, “Maryland style,” with creamed corn, shoestring potatoes, and fried banana. In whatever form, milanesa brings deep nostalgia, uniting generations around the table. As an honorary Porteña, I miss this dish more than any other when I’m away, and it’s the first I eat upon returning. My move is usually the suprema de pollo at Bar Oriente, with an ensalada mixta and mashed butternut squash—or papas fritas if I’m looking to indulge. For years, I swore not to divulge the greatness of this bar in Villa Ortúzar, but since it’s no longer hidden, I’ll pass it on to you.

Flan Mixto at Los Galgos

Avenida Callao 501, Tribunales 
+54 11 4371-3561

Flan Mixto at Los Galgos

The flan mixto at Los Galgos, a cherished café dating back to 1930, is pure tradition. It’s made using the classic 12-egg recipe from Doña Petrona, Argentina’s most iconic cookbook author and culinary figure, whose recipes have shaped home cooking. Slow-cooked for 90 minutes, the flan achieves a rich, creamy texture and is topped with dulce de leche from El Abascay organic dairy and a dollop of freshly whipped cream. But don’t skip straight to dessert: The menu is an introduction to other essential dishes that didn’t make this list, such as revuelto gramajo (potato and egg hash), tortilla de papas (Spanish omelet), torta pascualina (savory tart), and buñuelos de acelga (swiss chard fritters). For the full experience, pair it with a Ferroviario cocktail with Fernet Branca, Carpano Classico Rosso vermouth, and soda.

Ñoquis at Evelia

Campos Salles 1712, Núñez
+ 54 9 11 5316-0615

Ñoquis at Evelia

Originating in Italy, ñoquis (gnocchi) are a cherished tradition in Argentina, thanks to the waves of Italian immigrants who arrived starting in the mid-19th century. On the 29th of each month, families and friends gather to celebrate Ñoquis del 29 and enjoy these soft, pillowy potato dumplings together. The tradition, born from economic struggles, stretched an affordable meal to the end of the month. At Evelia in Núñez, chef Máximo Togni honors his grandmother Evelia’s gnocchi legacy. The ñoquis are made by roasting Sagitta potatoes on a bed of coarse salt, then mixing them with 00 flour and egg yolk. The bright and herbaceous pesto incorporates Grana Padano cheese and pine nuts, while the ñoquis con estofado Evelia pay homage to Togni’s family’s beef and tomato stew recipe, featuring punta de paleta (flat iron steak), a cut prized for its fat and collagen, slowly braised with Italian tomatoes and vegetable stock. 

Sándwich de Miga at Las Violetas

Avenida Rivadavia 3899, Almagro
+54 11 4958-7387

Sándwich de Miga at Las Violetas

These crustless, delicate tea sandwiches, akin to Italian tramezzini, must be eaten fresh to dodge any dreaded sogginess. They’re a staple at birthdays, office gatherings, bakeries, and cafés, and come filled with anything from ham and cheese to egg salad to hearts of palm with salsa golf (mayo-ketchup). For the full experience, head to Las Violetas, a storied café notable (a designation given to historic cafés recognized for their cultural and architectural significance) dating back to 1884 in the Almagro neighborhood. Here, mozos (waiters) in white shirts, vests, and bow ties serve loyal regulars who linger for hours. Settle in—this is Buenos Aires café culture at its essence. 

Pizza and Fainá at La Mezzetta

Avenida Álvarez Thomas 1321, Villa Ortúzar
+54 11 4554-7585

Pizza and Fainá at La Mezzetta

Buenos Aires-style pizza stands out for its thick, doughy crust and exuberant amounts of cheese. A must is the fugazzetta, especially at La Mezzetta—a beloved standing-room only spot since 1939, where locals line up out the door for cheese-laden pies topped with caramelized onions. The pro move is to order by the slice, choosing from a variety of classic toppings like the fugazzetta (loaded with caramelized onions and cheese) and other fan favorites, including mozzarella, “Napolitana” with tomatoes and garlic, and ham with roasted red peppers. You might notice locals balancing fainá atop their pizza slices—a chickpea cake that may seem unusual to newcomers but offers a ritualistic blend of flavors cherished by Porteños.

Alfajores at Ada Café

Tucumán 2300, Balvanera
+54 11 5378-7520

Alfajores at Ada Café

The alfajor is more than dessert—it’s a national treasure. This sandwich cookie filled with dulce de leche is traditionally made from a cornstarch dough and rolled in coconut, though you’ll also find it coated in milk or white chocolate. Most Argentines pick up their favorite store-bought brands—Jorgito, Capitán del Espacio, Cachafaz—at the local kiosco, but these days, cafés are reimagining the classic. At Ada Café, a corner spot with fantastic people watching in the heart of Once’s garment district, alfajores get a fresh twist: Their vegan dark chocolate and raspberry version is a bold, tangy riff on tradition—and it doesn’t stop there. Ada’s rotating menu of alfajores push cookie boundaries with creations like a lemon alfajor filled with white chocolate ganache and lemon curd; or the chocoliva, packed with chocolate ganache and dulce de leche. Go for merienda (tea time between lunch and dinner), pair it with an expertly brewed coffee, and you’ll understand why Argentina feels a special bond to the alfajor in all its forms.

Sorrentinos at Tita La Vedette

Paz Soldán 4993, La Paternal
Bonpland 850, Chacarita 

Sorrentinos at Tita La Vedette

Sorrentinos, despite their Italian-sounding name, are an Argentine-created comfort food. Larger than ravioli, these generously stuffed pasta pockets—typically filled with ham, spinach, mozzarella, or ricotta cheese—are sealed with a circular mold and often served with tuco (tomato sauce). You’ll find sorrentinos at Sunday family lunches and in traditional bodegones across the city. For a plant-based twist and a look at how local favorites continue to evolve, Tita La Vedette offers artisanal vegan sorrentinos with inventive fillings like squash, matsutake mushrooms, and almonds with cashew cream and carrot oil. The colorful dough also changes regularly, depending on what ingredients they have on hand, such as activated carbon, beets, and turmeric. This women-owned business has built a devoted following, with a small takeout shop in Chacarita and a sit-down restaurant in up-and-coming La Paternal.

For a more classic take, try Cantina Pierino, a century-old institution that has been serving homemade pastas in Almagro since 1909. Their fresh sorrentinos come with fillings like spinach and ricotta, ham and mozzarella, or eggplant and basil, and are paired with a choice of over 14 homemade sauces.

Helado at Obrador Florida

Soler 5063, Palermo 

Helado at Obrador Florida

In a city defined by indulgence, helado (ice cream) is the ultimate expression of Buenos Aires’ sweet tooth. Here, ice cream isn’t just dessert—it’s a touchstone of Porteño life. Heladerías buzz year round, offering Italian-style gelato with dense, silky texture and dozens of flavors. Dulce de leche reigns supreme, often appearing alongside brownies, nuts, and chocolate chunks, but other favorite flavors include chocolate, sambayón, and seasonal fruit sorbets. Among the city’s beloved shops, Obrador Florida stands out for its quality and innovation. Every flavor is made on site in their production kitchen, visible through the windows. Their 12 rotating flavors highlight seasonal produce, such as wild blackberries paired with a blend of Madagascar, Tahitian, and Ugandan vanilla. Complete your scoop at their toppings bar, where you can customize this already elevated helado experience.  

Medialunas at La Garage

Arévalo 2253, Palermo

Medialunas at La Garage
Laura Macías

Buenos Aires’ medialuna (crescent-shaped pastry) master can be found in the Palermo neighborhood at La Garage. Here, the pastries are crafted with precision: Delicate layers of laminated dough rise into pillowy crescents, lightly glazed for just the right balance of sweetness and sheen. The medialunas con dulce de leche are especially decadent, as is the croissant grilled cheese with kimchi, in which the cheesy richness meets the spicy kick of fermented cabbage. Run by two young chefs, the garage-cum-bakery blends tradition with subtle innovation, operating as a takeaway spot with a few outdoor tables. Step inside and you’re greeted by a deli counter overflowing with tempting options, from savory puff pastries and chipá cheese bread to ricotta cake and Jewish Argentine nods like knishes and challah egg salad sandwiches. After I sampled medialunas from some of the city’s best bakeries in a blind taste test, La Garage stood out as my top choice. 

Bonus Track: Fernet con Coca, Viajero Style  

Fernet con Coca is an iconic Argentine mixed drink, a staple at asados (barbecues), parties, and concerts. The viajero version, in which Fernet and Coca-Cola are poured into a cut plastic Coke bottle (its edges carefully smoothed with a lighter to prevent any mishaps), embodies the camaraderie and community at the heart of Porteño gatherings. It’s a communal drink, meant to be passed around, sipped in parks, and enjoyed at casual get-togethers. While restaurants like La Carnicería and Chori serve their own takes, the true magic lies in mixing it yourself and sharing it al aire libre.

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The Provoleta is Your New Favorite Gooey Cheesy Sandwich https://www.saveur.com/provoleta-argentina-uruguay-grilled-cheese-sandwich/ Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:39:18 +0000 https://dev.saveur.com/uncategorized/provoleta-argentina-uruguay-grilled-cheese-sandwich/

Head to Argentina and Uruguay to try this breadless version of a grilled cheese

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Many grilled cheese connoisseurs know that the best part of a grilled cheese sandwich is the bubbling melted bits that spill over the sides and crisp on the pan. So what happens when you ditch the bread and cook a hunk of cheese in a wood-fired oven or on the barbecue until browned yet gooey? Meet the provoleta, Uruguay and Argentina’s answer to the grilled cheese. And in an unassuming spot on the South Atlantic, cheese fanatics flock for a one-of-a-kind rendition.

In Uruguay and Argentina, the provoleta is an integral part of the barbecue ritual. It is usually served as an appetizer during an asado, and joins starter companions like chorizo sausages, blood sausages, sweetbreads and chitterlings. Provoleta can be cooked directly on the parrilla (grill) like a steak, or in a provoletera, a cast-iron pan dedicated to the cheesy dish. In the queso fundido family, it is generally made from a long, cylindrical provolone-like semi-hard cheese, but tends to be more elastic than melty, and slightly browned on the outside. Not many riffs exist on the classic cheese dish, until now.

Say hello to the provoleta
Say hello to the provoleta. Allie Lazar

On any busy night, Agustín Benítez and Federico Desseno will stick their hands into 1000°F ovens at least 200 times to prepare the house favorite. “We didn’t mean for this to happen, the dish was an accident,” Desseno tells me in the garden at Cantina del Vigía, his restaurant in Maldonado, a municipality about a mile outside of Punta del Este on Uruguay’s coast. Desseno and Benítez, both cooks and carpenters by trade, converted two dentist offices into the casual family restaurant, complete with a giant wood-fired clay oven they made by hand. This is Francis Mallmann country, where open flames and rustic presentation are ubiquitous. Like a handful of prominent cooks in the region, Desseno is a Mallmann disciple, and feels most comfortable working alongside roaring fire pits, which is how the provoleta technique was mastered.

You can find the provoleta at Cantina del Vigía in Maldonado
You can find the provoleta at Cantina del Vigía in Maldonado. Allie Lazar

“One day I stuck the provoleta into the horno de barro and it started to become really crispy,” says Benítez, explaining that he first created this unique version over ten years ago at Marismo in José Ignacio, Cantina del Vigía’s sister restaurant open only during the summer. The culprit of this wonderful mistake? Uncovered provoletas Benítez found sitting out in the walk-in fridge. “I took the provoleta out of the oven, flipped it with a spatula, and put it back in. It started to inflate. I thought I burned it, but when I cut into the shell, cheese began to melt out of the center,” he explains. They later discovered that the high temperatures caused the provoleta to seal and form a cheese enclosure, and when flipped midway, the whey’s steam became trapped inside, and it puffed up. A cheese star was born.

In the years to come, the duo perfected their ballooned provoleta technique at Cantina del Vigía by altering the pan type and oven temperature, and the crowds couldn’t get enough. Today, they make about 50 provoletas each night, and they buy approximately 3,000 pounds of cheese between Cantina del Vigía and Marismo every year.

Warning: Do not try this at home
Warning: Do not try this at home. Allie Lazar

But according to Desseno, do not try their provoleta at home; he cautions, “It’s not easy to replicate our recipe.” It begins with Uruguayan queso parrillero (grill cheese) from Granja Narbona, a dairy farm in the countryside. Next, the cheese is sliced into discs and kept uncovered in the refrigerator for seven to ten days, or until it dries out. Then, it is placed inside a specially cured pan and cooked next to embers that reach 900-1150°F. The provoleta goes in the clay oven for 30 seconds, and it is taken out, flipped over, and placed back inside. The process repeats itself various times until the crust forms and turns golden brown. Finally, a chimichurri-like sauce (drizzled olive oil, oregano, and red pepper flakes) gets smothered on top of the provoleta dome.

The finished product, a melty, perfectly browned provoleta
The finished product, a melty, perfectly browned provoleta.

Why does Desseno believe their provoleta receives such accolades? The answer now seems obvious. Most people have eaten the provoleta one way their entire lives, but this twist accentuates the best parts of the beloved dish. “The cheese inflates forming a delicious crispy shell, and when you cut into it, cheese oozes out,” he says. “¡Es buenísimo!”

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Buenos Aires Makes Some of the World’s Best (and Weirdest) Pizza https://www.saveur.com/buenos-aires-pizza-guide/ Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:23:13 +0000 https://dev.saveur.com/uncategorized/buenos-aires-pizza-guide/
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Forget Chicago and New York—Argentina takes pizza to whole new level

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Buenos Aires Pizzas
A slice of napolitana and fugazzeta Allie Lazar

If you want to witness a real Porteño brawl, insult an Argentine’s pizza and watch the argument ensue—the country is more than just the land of beef. Conversely, in Buenos Aires, the self-proclaimed pizza capital of South America, there are more pizzerias than steak-centric parrilla restaurants, and many locals proclaim that the high-rising, cheese-smothered slices rivals those of New York, Chicago, and Italy.

“Asado may be the national dish of Argentina, but pizza is the great love of Buenos Aires,” says Daniel Young, author of Phaidon’s Where To Eat Pizza. “In very few cities is the local pizza culture so pervasive and powerful as it is in Buenos Aires.”

Half of the Argentine population comes from Italian descendants, so it makes sense that pizza is such a big deal. Working class immigrants brought it over in the late 1800s starting with Naples native Nicolas Vaccarezza, who made the first documented pizza in his La Boca bread oven in 1882. He topped the dough with accessible and affordable ingredients, which in Argentina meant cheese and tomatoes. Over the next decades, immigrants continued to settle and the city experienced an explosion of pizzerias that strayed far from its Italian origins. A whole new pizza beast emerged, oozing with extra cheese on top.

Pizzeria Guerrin in Buenos Aires
Pizzeria El Guerrin, which specializes in classic pizza de molde. Allie Lazar

In the local pizza realm, there are six major varieties, but all (except for one oddball) share a similar trait: Cheese must be in abundance. “When you talk to the average Argentine about pizza, they won’t mention the dough,” says Pietro Sorba, an Italian born journalist and author of the book Pizzerias of Buenos Aires. “They will tell you about the quantity of cheese. The amount of cheese is a benchmark for quality, so the more cheese the better.”

Almost every pizza menu will serve standard flavor combinations like “muza” (mozzarella-like queso de barra cheese); “napo” or napolitana (not to be confused with napoletana style pizza) with cheese, sliced tomatoes, garlic, dried oregano and a few green olives; jamón y morrónes with cheese, sliced deli ham, and canned roasted red pepper; plus the occasional provolone, blue cheese, hearts of palm, and chopped hard boiled egg situations. You’ll also likely see slices served with fainá, a dense chickpea pancake similar to a dry piece of baked polenta. It traces back to Genoa’s farinata (and is similar to southern France’s socca), but only in Argentina and parts of Uruguay is it placed directly on top of a piece of pizza and eaten together in one double decker bite. The origin of this peculiar combination isn’t so well documented, but some pizzeros claim it dates back to when soccer stadium vendors would sell portions of pizza and fainá; customers would ask for both, so this was the most practical way to serve each food. Think the city’s pizza culture sounds nuanced and bizarre? Same—but it’s one worth getting to know.

Below, the six main pizza styles (and where to get them), slice-eating etiquette, and pizza-drink pairings:

Pizza de Molde

Pizza de Molde

A gooey, cheesy slice of pizza de molde.

Translating to “pizza in the pan,” pizza de molde is the most characteristic Argentine style. It has a thick, spongy base and elevated bready crust—it’s bread city, cheese paradise. Most all of the classic Porteño pizzerias specialize in pizza de molde. This style consists of a high-rising alta masa (high dough), generally reaching at least 2 cm, or a media masa (half dough) coming in at around 1.5 cm in height, and cooked in…yes, a pan. It’s similar to focaccia bread in which both the crust and inner dough have the same thick, spongy texture. When made right, the base has a sturdy crunch and the top overflows with a small amount of sauce and a lot of bubbling cheese that dreamily crisps at the bottom of the pan. Because pizza de molde is so thick and cheesy, the average eater only consumes about two slices.

Pizza de molde has created such furor that the annual Muza5k leads 400 people on a mozzarella pizza marathon that spans five kilometers across Corrientes Avenue, a major pizza street in downtown BA. The pizza marathon “runners” stop in numerous classic pizzerias for one slice of cheese pizza in each.

El Güerrin
Corrientes 1368, Centro
+54 11 4371-8141

El Cuartito
Talcahuano 937, Recoleta
+54 11 4816-1758

El Palacio de la Pizza
Corrientes 751, Centro
+54 11 4322-0441

El Cedrón
Av. Alberdi 6101, Mataderos
+54 11 4687-0387

If you’re a fan of onions and cheese, this is the pizza for you. Fugazzeta technically lives in the de molde family tree, but due to its pure oniony genius, the monster slice deserves its own category. The story goes something like this: Juan Banchero, son Italian baker Don Agustín, tried to save his dry, sub-par fugassa alla Genovese (Genoese focaccia) by slicing it down the middle and stuffing it with cheese. The result: a tomato-less pizza like none other that averages nearly two pounds of cheese per large pizza.

While each pizzeria may differ in exact terminology, there are a few deviations to take note of. The fugazza is a pizza de molde smothered in onions and topped with olive oil, salt, and sometimes just a sprinkle of Parmesan cheese. The fugazza con queso or fugazzeta is the same as the first except there’s an added mozzarella cheese-bonus on top. Taking it to the next level, the fugazzeta rellena (stuffed fugazzeta) is what food dreams are made of: It’s stuffed with an obscene dose of queso de barra mozzarella and covered in sweet, soft onions. Add an extra thin slice of deli ham to the cheese and you have the fugazzeta rellena con jamón.

La Mezzetta
Álvarez Thomas 1321, Villa Ortúzar
+54 11 4554-7585

Banchero
Suárez 396, La Boca
+54 11 4301-1406

El Fortín
Av. Álvarez Jonte 5299, Monte Castro
+54 11 4566-8279

Pizza Canchera

Pizza Canchera

Meet Buenos Aires’s oddball slice: the cheeseless pizza canchera.

One of the most well-known pizzas de media masa (half dough pizza) remains a total anomaly, debunking everything we know to be true about Argentine pizza. The pizza canchera, (also known as pizza de cancha) is a cheese-less pizza covered in a red sauce and heavily seasoned with garlic, onion, and non-spicy red pepper flakes, similar to what you would find in bakeries across Southern Italy. In Buenos Aires, pizza canchera was originally sold outside soccer stadiums, hence the name: Cancha means field in Argentine Spanish. These slices tends to be shorter than most de molde pizzas, and have an airy dough, a firm crunchy base, and a lot of sauce.

Angelín
Avenida Córdoba 5270, Villa Crespo
+54 11 4774-3836

Pizza a la Piedra

Pizza a la Piedra

Pizza a la piedra, which translates to “pizza cooked on a stone.”

In recent years, pizza a la piedra, or pizza baked on a stone, has given the thick crust a run for its queso. Made in a wood-fired or gas oven, this lighter slice comes out with a crispy thin crust that is slightly chewy. A good amount of tomato sauce is spread on top, along with a healthy helping of cheese and fresh toppings. Many consider this type of pizza to be more modern, and pizzerias have adapted their original concept to add this style to its repertoire.

Albamonte
Av. Corrientes 6735, Chacarita
+54 11 4554-4486

Ferreiro
Av. Angel Gallardo 1001, Caballito
+54 11 4856-8063

La Guitarrita
Cuba 3300, Nuñez
+54 11 4704-0756

Pizza a la Parilla

Pizza a la Parrilla

This slice features an ultra-thin crust, crackly crust.

Grilling is Argentina’s most treasured pastime, and the grill the most cherished appliance, so it’s only natural for the great parrilla to join forces with this pizza. Restaurants serving pizza a la parrilla, or pizza on the grill, give an alternative to the bready tradition while honoring another. The ultra-thin, delicate dough is grilled over hot coals on one side for five minutes, then flipped over and topped with minimal ladles of red sauce, a variety of fresh ingredients, and cheese, before being grilled for five to seven minutes longer. The result: a cracker-thin crust that crunches with every bite, joining two culinary rites of passage.

La Más Querida
Echeverría 1618, Belgrano
+54 11 4788-1455

1893
Av. Scalabrini Ortiz 701, Villa Crespo
+54 11 4773-2951

Italian Pizza

Pizza Italiana

A pizza napoletana cooks away in the oven.

Even though Buenos Aires abounds in Italian influence, you can count on one hand the Porteño pizzerias that actually honor the traditional way to make pizza. While many locals reject the chewy-thin crust, flavorful sauce, and easy-on-the-cheese way of life, Italian styles like pizza napoletana and pizza romana are slowly capturing the hearts of those who truly appreciate quality ingredients over quantity of formaggio.

Siamo nel forno
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Buenos Aires Pizzeria

How to eat a slice like a local

Locals sit down in El Cuartito, an old-school pizzeria.

Understanding the local pizza culture is just as important as learning the varieties. First of all, locals never pick up pizza with their hands—in Argentina, pizza is eaten with a fork and a knife. But what is an option is how you position your physical body. Most old school pizzerias have two seating areas—one area for groups to sit down and order entire pies and another self-service standing room only section for the serious pizza fanatics who eat their corte (slice) de parado (standing up).

As for the ideal beverage pairing, many wash pizza and fainá down with a liter of national Quilmes beer, or the more customary choice, cheap and sweet moscato from Bodegas y Viñedos Crotta. There’s even a famous Argentine rock song, “Moscato, pizza y fainá“, dedicated to this eating ritual, because as you’ve learned, Buenos Aires doesn’t mess around.

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