David McMillan & Frédéric Morin Archives | Saveur

Cast-Iron Squash Pudding

David McMillan & Frédéric Morin — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:24:01 +0000

Christina Holmes

This cakelike pudding from Frédéric Morin and David McMillan, co-owners of Montreal’s Joe Beef, rides the line between side dish and dessert. For an easy caramel sauce and squash topping, double or triple the quantities of delicata and granulated sugar; if you want to emphasize this dish’s savory nature, skip the caramel for grated cheddar when serving.

Featured in: “The Joe Beef Guide to Open-Fire Feasting.”

Makes: serves 8-10

Time: 1 hour 55 minutes

Ingredients

1 lb. butternut squash, peeled and cut into 1-in. chunks
3 cups whole milk
One 1-lb. delicata squash
¹⁄₂ cup granulated sugar
2¼ cups all-purpose flour
2 tsp. baking powder
¾ tsp. kosher salt
½ tsp. ground ginger
¼ tsp. ground nutmeg
4 tbsp. unsalted butter, softened, plus more for greasing
½ cups turbinado sugar
½ cups maple syrup, preferably grade B
3 large eggs
3 tbsp. apple cider

Instructions

To a 10-inch cast-iron skillet set over medium-high heat, add the butternut squash and milk. When the liquid begins to boil, turn the heat to medium-low and cook until soft, about 10 minutes. Drain the squash (discard the milk), then whisk it into a purée. Scrape the purée into a small bowl and set aside. Clean the skillet and return it to the stove.
Wash the delicata squash, cut it in half lengthwise, and discard the seeds, then slice it into ½-inch half-moons. To the empty skillet, add the sugar and ½ cup of water. Turn the heat to medium-high and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mixture begins to boil and is starting to brown, about 6 minutes. Stir in ¼ cup of water (the mixture will bubble vigorously), then arrange the delicata squash atop the caramel in one tight layer (reserve any pieces that don’t fit for another use). Cook the squash in the caramel, turning once and adding water by the ¼ cup if the pan looks dry, until tender and browned on both sides, 16–20 minutes. Lightly press the squash into a single layer, grease the sides of the pan with butter, and set aside.
Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F. Into a medium bowl, sift the flour, baking powder, salt, ginger, and nutmeg, and whisk to combine. In the bowl of a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter and turbinado sugar on medium-high until combined, about 1 minute. Beat in the maple syrup, followed by the eggs one by one, scraping down the bowl after each addition. Beat in the cider and squash purée, then add the flour mixture and beat on low speed until just combined.
Pour the batter over the squash, spreading it to the edge of the skillet. Bake until deep golden and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, 40–45 minutes. Run the tip of a knife around the rim of the skillet, then carefully invert the pudding onto a large plate. Serve warm or at room temperature.

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Stuffed Leeks With Blue Cheese, Raisins, and Almonds

David McMillan & Frédéric Morin — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:37:42 +0000

Photography by Christina Holmes

The bold flavors of blue cheese, anchovies, and Worcestershire sauce—plus a little kiss from the flame—make otherwise mild-flavored leeks just the thing for a cold night by the fire. Roasting them under sealed parchment paper allows the leeks to steam, tenderizing them before they char.

Red Morin and Dave McMillan make an effort to keep their work as relevant outside the kitchen—they have plans for a small apple orchard near their restaurants—as inside.

Makes: serves 8

Time: 50 minutes

Ingredients

4 large leeks, rinsed (3 1/4 lb.)
1 tbsp. plus 1 tsp. kosher salt
¹⁄₂ cup olive oil
¹⁄₂ stick unsalted butter, melted
¹⁄₃ cup raisins, chopped
¹⁄₄ cup crumbled blue cheese
¹⁄₄ cup dill, chopped
2 tbsp. red wine vinegar
¹⁄₂ tbsp. hot sauce
1 ¹⁄₂ tsp. Worcestershire sauce
1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
24 almonds, coarsely chopped
2 anchovy fillets, chopped (optional)

Instructions

Prepare a woodburning or indoor oven to 425°. Line a large rimmed baking sheet or cake pan with a 15×34-inch piece of parchment paper (half the sheet will be hanging off), or use two 13×17-inch pieces.
Cut the dark green parts off of the leeks, then finely chop them until you have 1 cup; reserve. Starting 1⁄4 inch from the roots of the leeks, cut the leeks lengthwise down the center, leaving the bottommost layer intact. Run the leeks under cold running water, gently separating the leaves to release any dirt, then pat dry.
Transfer the leeks to the prepared baking sheet. Sprinkle 1⁄4 tsp. salt over each leek.
In a medium bowl, mix the oil, butter, raisins, cheese, dill, vinegar, hot sauce, Worcestershire sauce, pepper, almonds, anchovies (if using), remaining salt, and reserved chopped leek greens. Spoon a scant 1⁄2 cup of the mixture down the center of each leek.
Fold the hanging edge of the parchment paper over the leeks, or place a second piece of parchment on top, to cover. Tuck the edges under and fold, creating a sealed pouch.
Roast for 30 minutes. Then remove and discard the top layer of parchment paper. If cooking with wood fire, shift the pan closer to the heat source. For an indoor oven, preheat to broil.
Roast or broil the leeks until the leeks and filling are slightly charred in places, 2–3 minutes. Carefully cut each in half crosswise using kitchen shears or a sharp knive, and serve.

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Crab Apple Liqueur With Cinnamon

David McMillan & Frédéric Morin — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:48:33 +0000

Photography by Christina Holmes

Goldschläger’s far subtler (but still gold-flecked) relative, this after-dinner sipper has sweetness, a cinnamon aroma, and an apple finish. Crab apples, which can be dropped in whole to steep, are ideal due to their low water content. “If you’re from somewhere warmer and your crab apples are not as tart,” says Joe Beef’s Red Morin, “add a splash of good cider vinegar at the end.”

Red Morin and Dave McMillan make an effort to keep their work as relevant outside the kitchen—they have plans for a small apple orchard near their restaurants—as inside.

Makes: makes about 5 cups

Time: 20 minutes

Ingredients

2 lb. hard, fragrant crab apples, scrubbed clean
1 cinnamon stick
4 cups Everclear, or substitute high-proof vodka or rye whiskey
¹⁄₃ cup maple syrup
¹⁄₃ cup sugar
Gold flake, crumbled (optional)

Instructions

In a 4-quart jar or other tight-sealing container, add the apples and cinnamon. Cover with the alcohol and seal.
Store in a cool dark place for at least 1 month and up to 2 months. Then strain and reserve the liquid, discarding the apples.
In a small pot over medium heat, add the maple syrup, sugar, and 1⁄3 cup water; bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Remove and let cool completely. Add the syrup to the infused spirit, stirring to incorporate. Stir in some gold flake, if desired.
Using a funnel, transfer the liqueur to a clean glass bottle. Shake to distribute the gold flake before serving. Serve chilled or at room temperature.

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Potatoes With Chestnuts and Clams

David McMillan & Frédéric Morin — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:24:17 +0000

These stuffed potatoes, which tenderize first in foil packets then crisp up in cast iron atop the coals (or in the oven), are packed with a mix of roasted chestnuts, bacon, and juicy whole clams. "Clams and potatoes are a match made in heaven," says Joe Beef's Dave McMillan of the unusual, yet welcome addition of seafood to potatoes. "Just think about clam chowder." Get the recipe for Potatoes with Chestnuts and Clams ». Christina Holmes

These stuffed potatoes, which tenderize first in foil packets then crisp up in cast iron atop the coals (or in the oven), are packed with a mix of roasted chestnuts, bacon, and juicy whole clams. “Clams and potatoes are a match made in heaven,” says Joe Beef’s Dave McMillan of the unusual, yet welcome addition of seafood to potatoes. “Just think about clam chowder.”

Red Morin and Dave McMillan make an effort to keep their work as relevant outside the kitchen—they have plans for a small apple orchard near their restaurants—as inside.

What You Will Need

Makes: makes about 5 cups

Time: 20 minutes

Ingredients

2 lb. hard, fragrant crab apples, scrubbed clean
1 cinnamon stick
4 cups Everclear, or substitute high-proof vodka or rye whiskey
¹⁄₃ cup maple syrup
¹⁄₃ cup sugar
Gold flake, crumbled (optional)

Instructions

In a 4-quart jar or other tight-sealing container, add the apples and cinnamon. Cover with the alcohol and seal.
Store in a cool dark place for at least 1 month and up to 2 months. Then strain and reserve the liquid, discarding the apples.
In a small pot over medium heat, add the maple syrup, sugar, and 1⁄3 cup water; bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Remove and let cool completely. Add the syrup to the infused spirit, stirring to incorporate. Stir in some gold flake, if desired.
Using a funnel, transfer the liqueur to a clean glass bottle. Shake to distribute the gold flake before serving. Serve chilled or at room temperature.

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Fire-Roasted Duck & Pheasant With Red Currant Jelly

David McMillan & Frédéric Morin — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:52:38 +0000

Fred Morin and Dave McMillan of Joe Beef in Montreal cook a mix of birds over flames and embers, using hooks and chains to suspend and rotate them (different-size birds will cook at different speeds). "The spin, the way the fat drips down, all combines to make a wonderfully burnished bird," says McMillan. Ambitious home cooks can hang birds using twine or wire over a backyard fire, or simply roast birds on a rack set in a roasting pan in the (indoor) oven. Get the recipe for Fire-Roasted Duck and Pheasant with Red Currant Jelly ». Christina Holmes

Fred Morin and Dave McMillan of Joe Beef in Montreal cook a mix of birds over flames and embers, using hooks and chains to suspend and rotate them (different-size birds will cook at different speeds). “The spin, the way the fat drips down, all combines to make a wonderfully burnished bird,” says McMillan. Ambitious home cooks can hang birds using twine or wire over a backyard fire, or simply roast birds on a rack set in a roasting pan in the (indoor) oven.

Red Morin and Dave McMillan make an effort to keep their work as relevant outside the kitchen—they have plans for a small apple orchard near their restaurants—as inside.

Makes: serves 6

Time: 1 hour 25 minutes

Ingredients

1 whole duck (4-5 lb.)
1 whole pheasant (about 3 lb.)
Salt and pepper
2 tbsp. lard, duck fat, or olive oil, plus more for basting
1 tbsp. armagnac, cognac, or brandy
1 tbsp. fresh thyme, chopped
1 garlic clove, smashed
¹⁄₃ cup red currant or apple jelly, warmed

Instructions

Pat the birds dry, inside and out, with paper towels. Trim any extra skin around the cavity of the duck. Running your hands beneath the skin, carefully separate the skin from the flesh without tearing or removing it. Season the outer part of the skin and the inner cavity of both birds generously with salt and pepper, then transfer to the refrigerator and let rest uncovered at least 6 hours or overnight.
In a hearth or fire pit, prepare a small fire. Alternatively, set a rack in the center of an indoor oven and preheat to 350°. In a small pot, warm the lard or other fat and add the armagnac, thyme, and garlic. Brush both birds with the lard mixture. Using a 3-foot piece of twine soaked in water, hang the duck by the limbs or cavity above the fire; or in a large roasting pan fitted with a rack, position the duck off to one side of the rack. If hanging the bird, set a pan beneath it to catch any drippings.
Roast the duck until the skin is just starting to color and some of the fat has rendered, about 25 minutes.
If cooking with fire, move the duck closer to the heat source, or add more wood to the fire as needed to increase the heat. If cooking in a home oven, retrieve the roasting pan and raise the oven heat to 525°. Meanwhile, baste the duck with some of the rendered fat from the pan, or more of the rendered lard mixture. Hang the pheasant next to the duck, placing a pan beneath it to catch drippings, or adding it to the other half of the roasting pan.
Roast both birds until the skin is browned and the juices from the leg joints run mostly clear when poked with a paring knife, about 25 minutes. Remove the birds briefly and brush with the warmed jelly. Roast, swiveling the birds on strings or rotating them as needed, until the skin is caramelized and darkened, 5–10 minutes more (watch closely for burning).
Remove and let the birds rest 5 minutes. before carving. Serve the pieces in a shallow pool of the pan drippings.

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Roasted Sunchokes With Potatoes & Mushrooms

David McMillan & Frédéric Morin — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:42:28 +0000

Roasted Sunchokes with Potatoes & Mushrooms. Christina Holmes

Catching the drippings trickling down from cooking birds—a trick Joe Beef’s Red Morin and Dave McMillan recommend especially midway through roasting, when the fat begins to render and run more rapidly from the skin—adds lustiness to a simple dish of roasted sunchokes and mushrooms. Store-bought duck fat or lard is an easy cheat.

Red Morin and Dave McMillan make an effort to keep their work as relevant outside the kitchen—they have plans for a small apple orchard near their restaurants—as inside.

Makes: serves 6-8

Time: 1 hour 20 minutes

Ingredients

1 ¹⁄₂ lb. sunchokes (Jerusalem artichokes), scrubbed, large ones halved or quartered
1 ¹⁄₂ lb. fingerling potatoes, scrubbed, large ones halved or quartered
1 lb. crimini mushrooms, trimmed
4 garlic cloves
1 tbsp. kosher salt
¹⁄₂ cup rendered duck fat

Instructions

Preheat a woodburning or indoor oven to 475°. Run all of the vegetables quickly under water and do not dry them.
In a large bowl, add the sunchokes, fingerlings, mushrooms, and garlic; season with the salt and toss to distribute.
In an extra-large (16-inch) cast-iron skillet or in a roasting pan, heat the duck fat over high heat until just beginning to smoke. Turn out the vegetables into the pan and spread them out into an even layer without stirring (the pan will sizzle and steam dramatically). Cook until the vegetables have just begun to brown on the bottom, 5–7 minutes, then stir to dislodge them from the pan. Cook, without stirring, until browned on another side, 3–5 minutes more. Stir again to dislodge, then transfer the pan to the oven.
Roast the vegetables, stirring once halfway through, for 20 minutes. Lower the temperature to 350° and cook until the sunchokes are very tender when pierced with a fork, about 40 minutes more.

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