Issue 169 | Saveur Eat the world. Wed, 25 Jan 2023 15:32:33 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.8.2 https://www.saveur.com/uploads/2021/06/22/cropped-Saveur_FAV_CRM-1.png?auto=webp&width=32&height=32 Issue 169 | Saveur 32 32 Julia Child’s Garlic Mashed Potatoes https://www.saveur.com/article/recipes/julia-childs-garlic-mashed-potatoes/ Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:52:22 +0000 https://dev.saveur.com/uncategorized/article-recipes-julia-childs-garlic-mashed-potatoes/
Julia Child's Garlic Mashed Potato recipe
Thirty cloves of garlic go into this creamy side dish, adapted from Julia Child's Mastering the Art of French Cooking: Volume 1 (Alfred A. Knopf, 1961). The cloves are first blanched whole, which enhances their sweetness, then used to make a rich béchamel sauce that's stirred into mashed potatoes with cream and parsley. Get the recipe for Julia Child's Garlic Mashed Potatoes ». Romulo Yanes

How America's favorite cooking teacher made America's favorite side dish.

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Julia Child's Garlic Mashed Potato recipe
Thirty cloves of garlic go into this creamy side dish, adapted from Julia Child's Mastering the Art of French Cooking: Volume 1 (Alfred A. Knopf, 1961). The cloves are first blanched whole, which enhances their sweetness, then used to make a rich béchamel sauce that's stirred into mashed potatoes with cream and parsley. Get the recipe for Julia Child's Garlic Mashed Potatoes ». Romulo Yanes

Thirty cloves of garlic go into this creamy side dish, adapted from Julia Child’s Mastering the Art of French Cooking, but fear not: they’re blanched until soft and sweet before being stirred into the spuds (along with plenty of cream and parsley).

Featured in “The Glories of Garlic,” by Karen Shimizu.

Makes: Serves 6

Ingredients

  • 30 unpeeled garlic cloves
  • 8 Tbsp. unsalted butter
  • 2 Tbsp. all-purpose flour
  • 1 cup whole milk
  • 2 <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>2</sub> lb. russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-in. pieces
  • Kosher salt and ground white pepper, to taste
  • <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>4</sub> cup heavy cream
  • <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>4</sub> cup finely chopped parsley leaves

Instructions

  1. Bring a small pot of water to a boil, then add the garlic and boil for 2 minutes; drain and peel. Return the pot to the stove, turn the heat to medium, and add 4 tablespoons of the butter and the garlic and cook until soft, 15–20 minutes. Stir in the flour and cook for 2 minutes, then add the milk and cook until thick and bubbling, 3–4 minutes more. Using an immersion or regular blender, purée. To a large pot, add the potatoes and enough generously salted water to cover by 1 inch. Bring to a boil, then turn down the heat to maintain a strong simmer and cook until tender, about 15 minutesl. Drain, then pass through a potato ricer back into the pot (alternatively, use a potato masher to finely mash). Turn the heat to medium-low and gently stir in the remaining butter, reserved sauce, the cream, parsley, salt, and white pepper and cook until heated through, about 2 minutes more.

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Garlicky Skillet Greens With Ham https://www.saveur.com/article/recipes/garlicky-skillet-greens-with-ham/ Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:50:28 +0000 https://dev.saveur.com/uncategorized/article-recipes-garlicky-skillet-greens-with-ham/
Sauteed greens
Romulo Yanes

Aromatic aliums and sorghum syrup are a Southern secret.

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Sauteed greens
Romulo Yanes

These skillet-cooked bitter greens, from Atlanta-based chef and restaurateur Linton Hopkins, get a flavor boost from garlic confit and sorghum gastrique. Lighter in flavor than molasses, sorghum syrup is frequently used as a sweetener for Southern dishes ranging from cornmeal mush to candied yams. Combined with vinegar and Sriracha, it becomes a regionally-inflected sweet-and-sour sauce.

Featured in: “The Glories of Garlic.”

Makes: serves 6-8

Ingredients

  • <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>4</sub> cup apple cider vinegar
  • <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>4</sub> cup sorghum syrup
  • 2 tbsp. Sriracha hot sauce
  • 1 smoked ham hock
  • 1 small yellow onion, finely chopped, divided
  • 1 cup bacon fat
  • 1 <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>2</sub> lb. collard greens, stems discarded and leaves thinly sliced
  • turnip greens, stems discarded and leaves thinly sliced
  • cloves Kosher salt
  • 12 cloves <a href="https://www.saveur.com/article/recipes/simple-garlic-confit/">garlic confit</a>, coarsely chopped, plus 2 tbsp. garlic oil

Instructions

  1. In a microwave-safe bowl, whisk together the vinegar, sorghum syrup, and Sriracha. Cover and microwave on high for 2 minutes and set aside.
  2. In a medium Dutch oven, place the ham hock and half of the onion, cover with water, and turn the heat to high. When the liquid boils, turn the heat to medium-low and cook until the ham hock is very tender, 1½–2 hours. Set the pot aside until the ham hock is cool enough to handle, then remove it from the liquid and use your hands to shred the meat into a small bowl. Discard the liquid, cooked onion, and bone. Clean the Dutch oven and return it to the stove.
  3. In the empty Dutch oven set over medium-high heat, melt the bacon fat, then add the shredded meat and cook until browned and slightly crisp, 3–4 minutes. Stir in the remaining onion and cook until soft, about 8 minutes. Turn the heat to high, add the collard and turnip greens (in batches if necessary), and season with salt to taste. Cook, stirring continuously, until the greens are wilted, 1–2 minutes. Stir in the reserved vinegar-sorghum liquid, garlic confit, and garlic oil, and serve immediately.

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Ciabatta and Sausage Stuffing https://www.saveur.com/article/recipes/bouchon-bistro-ciabatta-and-sausage-stuffing/ Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:50:11 +0000 https://dev.saveur.com/uncategorized/article-recipes-bouchon-bistro-ciabatta-and-sausage-stuffing/
Ciabatta and Sausage Stuffing
Ingalls Photography

Thomas Keller's rustic Thanksgiving side.

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Ciabatta and Sausage Stuffing
Ingalls Photography

This rustic stuffing from Thomas Keller’s Bouchon Bistro is made with crusty Italian bread and laced with fresh herbs, aromatics, and sausage. The staff at the restaurant makes it as part of their annual tradition of serving a Thanksgiving feast to Yountville-area veterans and their families. This recipe first appeared in our November 2014 issue and is a part of the story Holiday for the Heroes.

What You Will Need

Makes: serves 6-8

Ingredients

  • 3 tbsp. unsalted butter
  • 10 oz. bulk sweet or hot breakfast sausage, casing removed
  • 1 carrot, cut into 1/4" dice
  • 1 small yellow onion, cut into 1/4" dice
  • 1 stalk celery, cut into 1/4" dice
  • 2 cups turkey or chicken stock
  • <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>3</sub> cup olive oil
  • 2 tbsp. roughly chopped parsley, plus more for garnish
  • 2 tbsp. roughly chopped rosemary
  • 2 tbsp. roughly chopped sage
  • 1 (12-oz.) loaf ciabatta bread, cut into 1" pieces
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Instructions

  1. Heat oven to 375°. Melt 1 tbsp. butter in a 12″ skillet over medium-high. Cook sausage, stirring and breaking up meat into medium pieces, until browned, 8–10 minutes. Transfer sausage to a large bowl; set aside. Add remaining butter to skillet; cook carrot, onion, and celery until soft, 5–7 minutes, and transfer to bowl with sausage. Add stock, oil, parsley, rosemary, sage, bread, salt, and pepper to bowl; toss to combine. Spread evenly in a 9″ x 13″ baking dish. Bake until golden brown and bread is slightly crisp on top, 30–35 minutes. Garnish with more parsley, if you like.

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Rule Breakers https://www.saveur.com/article/kitchen/rule-breakers-oxidized-wines/ Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:22:09 +0000 https://dev.saveur.com/uncategorized/article-kitchen-rule-breakers-oxidized-wines/
Saveur
Saveur

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Saveur
Saveur

Oxygen is usually the enemy of wine, giving whites a metallic edge and reds an aroma like sawdust. But select wines, deliberately oxidized, transform into something beautiful. I think their complex, savory flavors go great with Thanksgiving dishes. Domaine de Montbourgeau l’Etoile 2010, a chardonnay-savagnin blend from France’s Jura region, offers notes of candied walnuts and salinity, which are great with white meat. Made with Lebanese grape varieties, Chateau Musar White 2003 stands up well to dark meat and starches with its distinct tannic structure, macerated stone-fruit flavors, and sage aromatics. Delicately sweet, Primitivo Quiles Fondillón Solera 1948, a Spanish red made from monastrell grapes, boasts dried cherry and roasted nut flavors, making it a natural partner to cranberry sauce.

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La Gallega https://www.saveur.com/article/recipes/la-gallega/ Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:42:40 +0000 https://dev.saveur.com/uncategorized/article-recipes-la-gallega/
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SAVEUR Editors

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SAVEUR Editors

An exotic blend of sherry, vermouth, fresh juices, and cider, La Gallega, from TK bar, is the perfect accompaniment to the crisp fall weather.

MAKES ONE COCKTAIL

  • 2 cups honey
  • FOR THE COCKTAIL:
  • 2 oz. Tio Pepe Palomino Fino Sherry
  • ½ oz. Casa Mariol Sweet Vermouth
  • ½ oz. lemon juice
  • ½ oz. honey syrup
  • ¼ oz. grapefruit juice
  • 6 turns black pepper
  • 2 oz. hard cider
  • grapefruit peel, for garnish

1. Make the honey syrup: Combine honey and 1 cup water in a 2-qt. saucepan over high heat; boil. Reduce heat to medium and cook 5 minutes. Chill until ready to use.

2. Make the cocktail: Combine sherry, vermouth, lemon juice, syrup, grapefruit juice, and pepper in a cocktail shaker filled with ice; shake vigorously and strain into a txacoli glass filled with ice. Top with cider and garnish with grapefruit peel.

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Garlic Fried Rice With Vinegar Sauce https://www.saveur.com/article/recipes/filipino-garlic-fried-rice-with-vinegar-sauce-sinangag/ Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:48:02 +0000 https://dev.saveur.com/uncategorized/article-recipes-filipino-garlic-fried-rice-with-vinegar-sauce-sinangag/
Filipino Garlic Fried Rice with Vinegar Sauce (Sinangag)
Romulo Yanes

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Filipino Garlic Fried Rice with Vinegar Sauce (Sinangag)
Romulo Yanes

This garlicky rice, inspired by the Filipino classic breakfast, is delicious with fried eggs and a drizzle of vinegar sauce. This recipe first appeared in the tablet edition of our November 2014 issue.

Editor’s note: This recipe was formerly titled “Philippine Garlic Fried Rice.” We’ve changed the title to reflect that this recipe departs from most typical Filipino preparations.

Equipment

Makes: serves 4-6

Ingredients

  • <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>2</sub> cup white vinegar
  • <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>4</sub> tsp. crushed red chile flakes
  • 14 cloves garlic, minced
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
  • <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>3</sub> cup canola oil
  • 4 cups cold cooked white rice
  • 1 scallion, thinly sliced, for garnish
  • Fried eggs, for serving

Instructions

  1. Stir vinegar, chile flakes, 1 tbsp. garlic, salt, and pepper in a bowl; set aside. Heat oil in a 12″ skillet over medium-high. Cook remaining garlic until just golden, 1-2 minutes. Transfer 2 tbsp. garlic to a plate; set aside. Add rice to skillet; cook, stirring and breaking up any large clumps, until rice is heated through and slightly crisp in places, 5-7 minutes. Season with salt and transfer to a serving platter. Top with fried eggs and serve reserved sauce on the side.


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Bouchon’s Pâte Sucrée https://www.saveur.com/bouchons-pate-sucree/ Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:28:38 +0000 https://dev.saveur.com/uncategorized/bouchons-pate-sucree/
Bouchon's Apple Pie
Classic apple pie gets an upgrade at Las Vegas' Bouchon Bakery, where pastry chef Scott Wheatfill tops a flaky sweet crust with housemade apple butter and almond cream. The result is a delicate, refined tart with a creamy interior and a concentrated spicy flavor. Get the recipe for Bouchon's Apple Pie ». Eilon Paz

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Bouchon's Apple Pie
Classic apple pie gets an upgrade at Las Vegas' Bouchon Bakery, where pastry chef Scott Wheatfill tops a flaky sweet crust with housemade apple butter and almond cream. The result is a delicate, refined tart with a creamy interior and a concentrated spicy flavor. Get the recipe for Bouchon's Apple Pie ». Eilon Paz

This butter-rich version of pâte sucrée (sweet pie crust) from pastry chef Scott Wheatfill of Las Vegas’ Bouchon Bakery, has a bit of almond flour, lending a nuttiness that complements sweet fruit fillings. Use it to make his holiday appropriate Apple Pie with almond cream and homemade apple butter.

Makes: makes enough dough for one 9" tart
Time: 1 hour 20 minutes

Ingredients

  • 8 tbsp. unsalted butter, cubed and chilled
  • 3 <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>2</sub> tbsp. confectioners' sugar
  • 1 egg, beaten, 1½ tbsp. measured out for use
  • <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>4</sub> tsp. vanilla extract
  • 1 cup all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
  • <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>4</sub> cup almond flour

Instructions

  1. Cream butter and sugar in a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment until fluffy, 1–2 minutes. Add 1½ tbsp. egg and the vanilla; mix until combined. With the motor running, slowly add flours; mix until dough forms. Flatten dough into a disk and wrap in plastic wrap; chill at least 1 hour and up to 3 days.

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Simple Garlic Confit https://www.saveur.com/article/recipes/simple-garlic-confit/ Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:35:23 +0000 https://dev.saveur.com/uncategorized/article-recipes-simple-garlic-confit/
garlic confit
Andre Baranowski

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garlic confit
Andre Baranowski

Garlic confit, a silky, spreadable condiment, relies on a French technique for gently poaching peeled whole cloves in oil or fat. The process caramelizes the cloves and concentrates their sweetness while infusing them with the oil or fat that renders them rich and creamy

Makes: makes about 2 1/2 cups
Time: 50 minutes

Ingredients

  • 2 cups canola oil, lard, or rendered chicken or duck fat
  • 1 cup garlic cloves, peeled

Instructions

  1. Simmer oil, lard, or fat with garlic cloves in a 1-qt. saucepan over medium-low; cook until garlic is tender, 35–40 minutes. Let cool. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator up to 2 weeks.

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Garlic-Steamed Manila Clams https://www.saveur.com/article/recipes/garlic-steamed-manila-clams/ Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:36:44 +0000 https://dev.saveur.com/uncategorized/article-recipes-garlic-steamed-manila-clams/
Garlic-Steamed Manila Clams
Garlic-Steamed Manila Clams. Romulo Yanes

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Garlic-Steamed Manila Clams
Garlic-Steamed Manila Clams. Romulo Yanes

At The Stinking Rose, a garlic-themed restaurant in the old Italian North Beach neighborhood of San Francisco, the motto is “we season our garlic with food.” This dish from their menu features manila clams steamed in wine with sautéed garlic, which perfumes the shellfish with its nutty fragrance. Serve it with some good Italian bread for mopping up the sauce. This recipe first appeared in our November 2014 issue with the story The Glories of Garlic.

Makes: serves 2-4

Ingredients

  • 2 tbsp. olive oil
  • 8 cloves garlic, chopped
  • 2 small shallots, minced
  • 1 cup dry white wine
  • <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>2</sub> cup clam juice
  • 3 tbsp. unsalted butter
  • 2 tbsp. minced thyme
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
  • 2 lb. Manila or little-neck clams or mussels, scrubbed
  • 2 tbsp. minced parsley
  • Crusty bread, for serving (optional)

Instructions

  1. Heat oil in a 6-qt. saucepan over medium. Cook garlic and shallots until golden, 8–10 minutes. Add wine, clam juice, butter, thyme, salt, and pepper; boil. Add clams; cook, covered, until shells open, 3–4 minutes. Stir in parsley; serve with bread, if you like.

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Butter Queen https://www.saveur.com/article/kitchen/french-butter-cookies-galettes-bretonnes/ Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:25:32 +0000 https://dev.saveur.com/uncategorized/article-kitchen-french-butter-cookies-galettes-bretonnes/

A light-as-air cookie with a century-old French pedigree

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Each year when I visit my grandfather in Brittany, a pastoral region on France’s northwest coast, I return bearing delicious gifts for my friends: thin, delicate butter cookies called galettes bretonnes. What sets them apart are the Breton farmstead ingredients: freshly milled flour, just-laid eggs, and the region’s signature beurre demi-sel, a creamy butter containing less than 3 percent salt. Rich and subtly sweet, the cookies are heavenly crumbled over ice cream or nibbled alongside an afternoon cup of tea.

Galettes bretonnes are found throughout Brittany, but they first gained popularity in the small milling town of Pont-Aven toward the end of the 19th century. The boulangers there, who often exchanged bread for local farmers’ butter, used the excess dairy to make gâteau breton, a dense butter cake a foot in diameter that functioned as the sacramental bread.

The cake proved so cumbersome and weighty that the boulangerie customers who bought it to take to church began requesting smaller versions. To satisfy them, the bakers developed a cookie-sized variation that they called galettes.

The local specialty earned its fame in the late 1800s, when Paul Gauguin and other members of the Pont-Aven school of art drew flocks of tourists to the town aboard the new railroads, and shops dedicated to the treats proliferated.

One such store, Traou Mad de Pont-Aven, opened by the Le Villain family in 1920, has been making galettes de Pont-Aven for nearly a century. Today, the Le Villains’ cookies—crispy and golden with just a hint of salt to balance their sugar—are snatched up by vacationing Parisians and overseas travelers alike. But you don’t have to go to Brittany to get them. Traou Mad de Pont-Aven’s galettes de Pont-Aven can be ordered ($5 for a 3.5-oz. box) from simplygourmand.com.

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Brussels Sprouts With Horseradish and Pomegranate Seeds https://www.saveur.com/article/recipes/brussels-sprouts-with-horseradish-and-pomegranate-seeds/ Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:27:46 +0000 https://dev.saveur.com/uncategorized/article-recipes-brussels-sprouts-with-horseradish-and-pomegranate-seeds/
Brussels Sprouts with Horseradish and Pomegranate Seeds
Brussels sprouts are zipped up with horseradish by chef Ken Oringer of Toro in Boston and New York. André Baranowski

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Brussels Sprouts with Horseradish and Pomegranate Seeds
Brussels sprouts are zipped up with horseradish by chef Ken Oringer of Toro in Boston and New York. André Baranowski

Brussels sprouts are zipped up with horseradish by chef Ken Oringer of Toro in Boston and New York.

Makes: serves 4-6

Ingredients

  • 2 lb. Brussels sprouts
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
  • <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>2</sub> cup olive oil
  • 2 tsp. smoked paprika
  • 2 tbsp. grated lemon zest, plus 1/4 cup lemon juice
  • 2 tsp. white wine vinegar
  • <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>2</sub> cup pomegranate seeds
  • <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>4</sub> cup grated horseradish

Instructions

  1. Heat oven broiler. Cook sprouts in salted boiling water, 4 minutes. Drain and transfer to an ice bath. Drain, halve, and pat dry. Toss with oil, paprika, salt, and pepper on a baking sheet. Broil until caramelized, 8–10 minutes. Toss with lemon zest and juice and vinegar. Garnish with pomegranate seeds and horseradish.

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