Anything you’ve heard about Portland, Maine’s dining scene, you’ve probably heard within the last seven or eight or years. In 2018, Bon Appetit named it the “Restaurant City of the Year,” and the response was explosive. I was working as a local magazine editor then, and I saw the shift happen in real time. Tourists flooded in, and the community responded by opening more doors to more restaurants, coffee shops, and bars. Portland quickly found itself topping charts of U.S. cities with the most restaurants and breweries per capita, and today it still seems as if something new is opening every month. 

You could throw a stone in any direction and hit at least three amazing eateries. In 2024, two bakeries located just a 10-minute drive away from each other won James Beard Awards (Norimoto Bakery for Outstanding Pastry Chef, and ZUbakery for Outstanding Bakery—more on ZU in a bit). Many of Portland’s  restaurants have been celebrated far and wide, but this list highlights some lesser-known locales that have stood the tests of trends and time for a truly native taste of the city. 

I would be lying if I said Portland wasn’t having a bit of an identity crisis. I’ve lived on the outskirts of the city for most of my life and have seen it in every iteration over the past three decades. The city’s working waterfront has been at its heart since its founding, but its limits are being stretched by those competing for new luxury housing and corporate development. Portland is special, and it’s changing. As you visit this tiny city of 70,000, please remember to shop local and support the working waterfront as much as you can. (In December, one of Portland’s wharves suffered a devastating fire. Please consider donating to the recovery effort.) Below, you’ll find everything from stellar Sichuan cuisine and seafood staples to hot-pink hot dogs and a micro-bakery worth standing in line for. Wherever you land, Portland’s small-town charm shines through.

The Honey Paw

78 Middle Street
(207) 774-8538

Situated on the edge of the Old Port, The Honey Paw is easy to miss while shopping downtown, but trust me, this spot is worth the detour. Brought to you by the team behind Eventide Oyster Co., The Honey Paw’s modern, minimalist interior is anchored by a large central dining table that invites a chance to chat with your neighbors. If you prefer to people-watch, window seating is ample, too. The menu nods to Thai, Japanese, Chinese, and Indonesian cuisines. Those in the know know to order the smoked lamb khao soi and fried bread with a rotating compound butter (you won’t want to share the bread, btw). Other favorites include the napa cabbage salad with chili crisp ranch, kimchi-loaded pork katsu sandwich, fried wings with smoked butter and makrut lime leaf, and seasonally rotating pickle plate. To finish your meal, the honey soft serve—with a hard chocolate shell and sizable chunks of honeycomb—is a must.

Twelve

115 Thames Street
(207) 910-7400

Twelve opened in 2022 and was an instant favorite. The menu is elevated and constantly shifting with the seasons to highlight Maine ingredients at their peak. Chef and founder Colin Wyatt, formerly of New York City’s Daniel and Eleven Madison Park, returned to Maine after 12 years to bring his vision to life—one that celebrates the state’s culture as well as the passions of local farmers and artists. Leading the kitchen is executive chef Hannah Ryder, who cut her teeth in N.Y.C. at Café Boulud and Aquavit. Offerings at Twelve go beyond a simple dinner menu and include thoughtful wine pairings and private chef-led experiences. Reservations are highly recommended.  

Wayside Tavern

747 Congress Street
(207) 613-9568

Snugly tucked inside a historic hotel in Portland’s West End, Wayside Tavern quickly solidified itself as a regular haunt among visitors and locals alike. The interior is chic and moody yet warm and inviting. The menu is playful and comforting—think crispy beer-battered cod cheek with gribiche, cabbage salad with bacon and spring onion, roasted chicken with ricotta toast, tonnarelli with guanciale and pecorino—and word on the street is that locals crowned the smash burger best in all of Portland. (It has my vote.) If you’re looking for a cozy night that still feels luxurious, this is it. 

Taj

333 Clarks Pond Parkway, Suite 6, South Portland
(207) 828-6677

Have you ever eaten somewhere so good that any time someone mentions the restaurant afterward, you have a visceral reaction? That’s Taj. It might be safe to say that Taj is everyone’s favorite restaurant—the food has an unmatched depth of flavor offered in a range of classic and modern Indian dishes. Opened in South Portland in 2012 by Saithe Guntaka, the restaurant is a family operation to its core—his mother, Hemalatha Reddy Guntaka, helms the kitchen. Her khorma paneer and garlic naan are my go-to every time, but you really can’t order wrong here. There’s another reason to love Taj, too. In 2020, the Guntaka’s started donating holiday meals to those in need. A few hundred meals at Thanksgiving and Christmas has since grown to thousands; in 2025, Taj served around 10,000 meals between the two holidays, including deliveries to those who didn’t have transportation. In order to better serve its community, Taj recently expanded to a larger space, tripling in size. 

Ribollita

41 Middle Street
(207) 774-2972

Ribollita is a Portland mainstay that’s been gracing the East End since 1996. Middle Street may have changed a bit since, but chef-owner Kevin Quiet’s cooking has remained a welcome constant. The tiny Italian joint feels a little bit like you’re about to have dinner at your nonna’s house, complete with fresh-made pasta—the simple fettuccine alfredo is strikingly delicious, and the roast chicken puttanesca with pappardelle is cooked to perfection—and seafood staples like cacciucco (Tuscan fish stew), steamed mussels with pistachio butter, and polenta-crusted calamari. Whenever someone asks for Italian spots to try, this is my go-to suggestion; it’s as close as you can get to a comforting meal at home without lifting a finger. 

Sichuan Kitchen

612 Congress Street
(207) 536-7226

Sichuan Kitchen is perhaps Portland’s biggest hidden gem. When I was lucky enough to work in an office close by, I was a weekly visitor. Favorites from the má là-heavy menu include zhong dumplings in an aromatic chile sauce, yuxiang eggplant with pickled chiles and minced pork, chewy tian shui noodles, tangy daikon salad, and marinated cucumbers. Chengdu-native Qi Shen has been running the eatery alongside her parents and aunt since 2017. While the storefront is minimal, save for a bright red front door, what waits inside is exceptional. Plus, it’s steps from the Portland Museum of Art, so why not make an afternoon of it? 

The Thirsty Pig

37 Exchange Street
(207) 773-2469

This hot dog-lover’s haven in the heart of the city has tons to offer: housemade links (pork or chicken), shaved steak, pulled pork, plant-based dogs, and, yes, Maine’s famous fire engine-hued “red snapper” dogs, too. With 15 different ways to style your sausage, all served on fluffy brioche buns, the combos are endless. While The Thirsty Pig is great any time of year (they are constantly hosting musicians—its stage is dubbed Portland’s busiest for a reason!), it’s during the warmer months that it really shines. Pair your dog with a local pint and hit the patio out back for the ultimate spring kickoff. 

Scales

68 Commercial Street
(207) 805-0444

If you’re planning to visit Portland, you’re probably also planning to eat seafood. While locals may swear by roadside lobster shacks, there’s nothing wrong with splurging on the best seafood in town. The heart and soul of the Old Port is its working waterfront, and Scales—from the same team behind Fore Street and Street & Co.—is smack-dab in the center of it all. Situated down a wharf, with lobstermen docking with the day’s catch right outside your window, this posh eatery is the right way to treat yourself to Maine’s ocean bounty. Start with the clam chowder or salt cod croquettes before tucking into a steamed lobster. And be sure to order a side of molasses-sweetened brown bread for a full taste of Maine. 

Sissle & Daughters

107 Washington Avenue, #1
(207) 400-5344

Walking into Sissle & Daughters, you might think it’s just a cheese shop, but this place packs a punch. Not only will you find the shelves stocked with local and imported artisan charcuterie, wine, beer, pastas, oils, preserves, and more, but you’ll also find a delightful sandwich menu. It’s hard to choose between The Parisian, with jambon de Paris, Comté, local greens, and homemade dijonnaise; or the Jamwich, with whipped chèvre, local greens, rotating jam, and toasted sesame seeds (plus ham if you’d like). If I hit it right, I’ll snag a slice of burnt Basque cheesecake, too. Don’t forget to grab a local wedge or wheel and a baguette baked a few blocks over for a late-night snack! 

Boda 

671 Congress Street
(207) 347-7557

When Boda first hit the scene in 2010, there was huge buzz over a dish of sizzling quail eggs, served with soy and scallions in a cast iron kanom krok pan. Other favorites from the Thai street food-style menu include double-fried Brussels sprouts, spicy Thai wings, pork belly skewers, drunken noodles, and crisp-skinned Yaowarat duck, named for the main thoroughfare in Bangkok’s Chinatown. Belly up to the bar or settle into a table with friends to see why Portlanders’ love affair with Boda (and its quail eggs) is still going strong 16 years later. 

ZUbakery

81 Clark Street
(207) 409-0117

Sat squarely in the West End, this micro-boulangerie is making big waves—ZUbakery received the James Beard Award for Outstanding Bakery in 2024. Owner Barak Olins first opened ZU in 2000 but moved to its current location in 2022. Walk by on any morning and you’re bound to find a line snaking down the sidewalk (there’s room for about two people total inside). But lucky for everyone, the bakery schedule is posted on its website, so you can check it out online before going to stand in line. Set your sights on the daily croissants, scones, or monkey bread served up first thing, or linger a little for fresh-baked focaccia, pulled fresh from the oven at 10:45 a.m.

The post A Local’s Guide to the Best Restaurants in Portland, Maine appeared first on Saveur.

This spring, the SAVEUR team headed to the home state of editor-in-chief Kat Craddock for four food-filled days at the first-ever Providence Culinary Collective Festival. The weekend showcased top culinary talent in Rhode Island’s capital through a variety of events, including a splashy Vintner’s Dinner at The Reserve on Dorrance; a four-course DuMol wine dinner at chef Ben Sukle’s James Beard-nominated Oberlin; a Mill’s Tavern tasting with wine importer Frederick Wildman and vanilla specialist Nielsen-Massey; charitable events in support of Rhode Island Public Media, Feed the Children, and the Jacques Pépin Foundation; cooking classes led by Johnson & Wales University (JWU) professors; and even a food truck drag brunch.

March also marked the launch of SAVEUR’s Spring/Summer issue, in which another former Providence resident, editorial assistant Ryan McCarthy, paid homage to an underhyped local treasure: the saucy, gloriously room-temp pizza strip. As the festival’s official media partner, SAVEUR helped close out the weekend in the most Rhode Island way possible—by hosting an industry afterparty at Fox Point’s iconic Narragansett Brewery with pizza for days and buckets of ice-cold beer. In addition to an impressive range of brews—from coffee milk stout to hazy IPA to Czech-style pilsner—there were pillowy pretzel bites to snack on with a choice of ’Gansett beer cheese or agave mustard. 

Jan Dane of Stock Culinary Goods set up shop near the nibbles with stacks of issues 204 and 203 and Burlap & Barrel x SAVEUR spice blends. As she slid magazines into custom SAVEUR totes, she remarked that the “energy in the space was electric,” buzzing with enthusiastic chefs, restaurateurs, wine experts, journalists, and other industry pros all under one roof. 

A few yards away, Providence culinary legend and longtime SAVEUR contributor Joan Nathan signed copies of her latest cookbook, My Life in Recipes, while simultaneously schmoozing with partygoers. 

Out on the patio, local pizzaioli slung pie after pie from a fleet of Ooni pizza ovens. Pizza Marvin co-owner and James Beard Award semi-finalist Robert Andreozzi served special pizzas for the occasion: the first, an ode to pizza strips with crushed tomatoes, garlic oil, oregano, and pecorino; the second, a white carbonara pie topped with shaved asparagus, pancetta, and egg yolk. Alongside Andreozzi, Kevin O’Donnell (chef and owner of Newport’s Giusto and Mother Pizzeria) was putting his own spin on classic Rhode Island “party pie” with estratto di pomodoro, bianco di napoli tomatoes, and chile flakes. O’Donnell—who just opened a second Mother location at Track 15, Providence’s first-ever food hall—also caused a stir with a Hawaiian-ish pie featuring pineapple slivers, ’nduja, roasted peppers, caciocavallo, and hot honey.

Andreozzi grew up in Providence and appreciates the culinary camaraderie. “All the chefs here are very close, and we look to folks like Ben [Sulke] for a lot of support,” he says. “When I have pizza questions, I call Kevin. There is a really amazing support network here and I’m really honored to be a small part of that.”

Back inside the brewery, platters were piled high with even more local pizza—classic red strips from LaSalle Bakery. When it came time for dessert, the 93-year-old institution paraded out trays of iconic Italian American sweets, including their signature zeppole and cannoli.

The SAVEUR team mingled with many familiar faces from the local bar and restaurant community, including sommelier and partner at Oberlin and Gift Horse Bethany Caliaro; Angelo’s Restaurant president Jamie Antignano; knifemaker and fisherwoman Joyce Kutty; Dune Brothers fishmonger Luke Mersfelder; There, There chef Brandon Teachout; Osman Cortave, co-owner of Federal Hill’s newly opened Latin-inspired bar, Loma; and Frank & Laurie’s co-owners Eric Brown and Sarah Watts. And where there’s pizza, there is likely to be Pizza Wine founder Liz McDonnell (who also happens to be Andreozzi’s partner). Other guests included Rollie Wesen, the JWU professor and executive director of the Jacques Pépin Foundation; Downeast Dayboat owner and scallop expert Togue Brawn; photographer Christine Chitnis; America’s Test Kitchen food stylist and senior editor Ashley Moore; Hey Rhody Media Co.’s editor-in-chief Elyse Major; Brooklyn musician Brian Dunne; viral “map man” Andrew Middleton; and our friends from Rhode Island’s own Meridian Printing, who painstakingly produce each and every hard copy of SAVEUR.

“We all love SAVEUR, and it’s been amazing to see Rhode Island represented in its pages,” says Caliaro, who participated in one of the weekend’s panels. “I’m really excited about the first festival that Providence Culinary Collective put on—and what it means for the future of food in our city.”

The post Closing Out Rhode Island’s New Food Festival With a SAVEUR Afterparty appeared first on Saveur.

This piece originally appeared in SAVEUR’s Spring/Summer 2025 issue. See more stories from Issue 204.

Enter any Italian bakery in Rhode Island and you’ll immediately catch a whiff of warm bread and marinara. A reddish glow from the display case beckons you closer to the counter: Not quite pizza, not quite focaccia, Rhode Island pizza strips exist somewhere in a doughy space between.

When I first moved to the Ocean State a decade ago, I was admittedly unaware of the saucy slices’ cultural importance. It wasn’t until I fell for a woman whose family served them at every function that I became a full-hearted champion for pizza strips. Since we moved to New York, no trip back to Providence is complete without visiting Sal’s Bakery, where my partner’s family has been loyal customers for three generations.

Sometimes referred to as party pizza or bakery pizza, these sparsely topped strips are synonymous with the area’s Italian American bakeries, where the same dough used for Italian loaves is stretched into an olive oil-slicked sheet pan and covered with a thick layer of red sauce. After baking, the pie is left to cool, then cut into rectangles to be bought, sold, and eaten at room temperature, sometimes with a faint dusting of grated parm. Pizza strips typically come in flat white boxes and are doled out at casual group gatherings like birthday parties, Little League games, and family beach days as the perfect portable snack.

While the pizza strip’s origin story is a bit hazy, there are a few theories. “Part of the allure is the mystery surrounding them,” says Eric Palmieri, fourth-­generation baker and owner of D. Palmieri’s Bakery in Johnston. As he tells it, pizza strips “were something made in the home back in Italy, before the mass Italian migration to Rhode Island.” During the late 19th and early 20th centuries, when thousands of Italians landed in Providence, they reimagined foods from home using affordable pantry staples—canned tomatoes and bread being central.

Reminiscent of Roman pizza al taglio or Sicilian sfincione (and similar to Italian American tomato pies from Philadelphia and Utica, New York), pizza strips are a filling snack that travels well and stays fresh for hours. They’ve always been affordable, too: Donald DePetrillo, owner of the Original Italian Bakery in Johnston, says, “In the late 1960s, a sheet of red strips cost a few dollars. That was a deal.” Nowadays, the strips are still an inexpensive snack; for about $1.50, you can find individually wrapped ones in bakeries and supermarkets as well as convenience stores and gas stations.

But why so little cheese? The answer also lies in a bit of a gray area: Palmieri points out that, without cheese, baked goods stay fresh at room temperature for a longer period of time. Early bakeries lacking refrigeration could waste less product at the end of the day. At LaSalle Bakery in Providence, owner Michael Manni says they used to add a dusting of grated parmesan to their strips some 20-odd years ago, but a gripe from the local health department turned him off of it. “It’s the same cheese that sits out all day in a shaker at a pizza parlor,” Manni grumbles, “but we did what we were told, and our customers kept coming back.”

Most important, though, is the dough. Manni’s version, like many Italian bread recipes, uses a preferment known as a biga. “It’s all about the slow fermentation,” he explains, which typically takes 12 to 16 hours. “The long rise, the resting time—it all builds flavor and gives you the chewy texture that you want.” The sauce at LaSalle is a standard tomato base, seasoned with garlic, dried oregano, basil, and parsley—a definitive Italian American flavor profile.

The strips’ humble allure may be hard to explain, but the local devotion to them is profound: You’d be hard‑pressed to find a family gathering in Rhode Island without a large white box splayed open and guests’ hands picking at squares of sauce-laden dough. A flavor-packed party staple, pizza strips owe their ongoing legacy to the few remaining bakers still working across the state. “Pizza strips give us all a sense of place,” Palmieri says, “grounding us in ways we probably don’t even fully understand.”

Recipe

Rhode Island Pizza Strips

Get the recipe >

The post Rhode Island Pizza Strips Are Not Your Average Slice appeared first on Saveur.

Let’s set the record straight: Contrary to what you may have heard, there’s more to Boston than American Revolution trivia, and its restaurant scene is far from staid. In this brownstone-lined waterfront city, you’ll have to go beyond the tourist-catering seafood spots and take the less-trodden (cobblestone) path to realize there’s much more coming out of the kitchens than lobster rolls and clam chowder.

Stroll through East Boston, and you’ll find a decades-old Colombian restaurant serving enormous meat-laden bandeja paisa. Visit South End, one of the city’s buzziest dining neighborhoods, and you might chance upon the spicy-sour, tongue-tingling flavors of China’s Yunnan cuisine. And yes, as the salty ocean breeze reminds us, there’s plenty of New England’s freshest catch to enjoy—in the form of a spicy Greek-island fish stew in Back Bay, or as deep-fried seabass with housemade red curry in Brookline. 

I’ve been coming to Massachusetts regularly since college, and now that I live here, I have a front-row seat to how the restaurant scene is evolving. With this list of local restaurants to guide your eating exploits in Beantown, I hope you discover that the historic city you thought you knew is a far more vibrant mosaic than meets the eye. Though you might come for the fisherman’s platters, you’ll end up staying for the moqueca, rambutan salad, and octopus mortadella.

Spoke Wine Bar

89 Holland Street, Somerville
(617) 718-9463

The beauty of Spoke Wine Bar in Somerville is the way it meets you exactly where you are. If you’re looking for a quirky wine to impress your natty-loving friend, an enthusiastic bartender will pour a glass to remember, such as a smooth, chamomile-scented roditis from Attiki, Greece, or an herbaceous, mineral godello from Galicia, Spain. If you’re feeling a cocktail, there’s an ever-shifting, globally influenced selection—like the vodka-forward Bury the Glass, with green mango brine and star anise. Date-worthy dishes pair ingredients in unexpected ways, too: When in season, try the squash blossom cornmeal fritters with sauerkraut and sheep’s milk yogurt, or a potato salad bound with mayo enriched with crab fat and uni. You’ll notice the care and precision that goes into the food—from the dusting of powdered leeks on the sunchoke donuts to the curried crab butter that accompanies the bavette—yet there’s no trace of pretension in this intimate space. The decor may feel Scandinavian minimalist, but the food and drink go full-on maximal.

Barra

23A Bow Street, Somerville
(617) 764-1750

Is this Somerville hangout the closest a Bostonian can get to Mexico without skipping town? Mexican favorites seldom seen in these parts—spicy quesabirria tacos stuffed with melted cheese and shredded beef, creamy guacamole crowned with fried grasshoppers, and Yucatán cochinita pibil (slow-cooked, achiote-marinated pork)—are all on offer. The beverage program, too, reminds me of my favorite CDMX bars, with selections that include the Abasolo, a corn whiskey cocktail; a fruity and tannic nebbiolo from Baja, California; and a medley of enticing sotol options. (The restaurant’s name does mean “bar” in Spanish, after all.)

Sumiao Hunan Kitchen

270 Third Street, Cambridge
(617) 945-0907

Bold, spicy, and salty flavors dominate the menu at this Cambridge restaurant dedicated to the distinctive food of China’s Hunan province, where cooks make liberal use of preserved meats, pickled vegetables, and chile peppers. The menu is filled with hard-to-find regional favorites: A few bites into the thrillingly spicy crushed green peppers mixed with preserved century egg, or the pleasingly sour housemade pickled beans stir-fried with pork, and you’ll already be planning your next visit. Sumiao Hunan Kitchen might also have the city’s most extensive baijiu program, stirring the Chinese grain-distilled spirit into funky cocktails and serving beloved brands such as Wuliangye and Red Star Erguotou neat.

Sarma

249 Pearl Street, Somerville
(617) 764-4464

Like its acclaimed sibling restaurant—Turkish-inspired Oleana in Cambridge— newer Sarma in Somerville also roots its menu in Mediterranean meze. But chef Cassie Piuma plays up affinities among other global flavors, too: She laces her famous cornbread with feta, honey, and spicy peppers, while her swordfish, seasoned with black sesame and served with wasabi yogurt and yuzu-scented dolmades, marries Asian and Levantine sensibilities. Oleana may be a special occasion darling, but Sarma, with its uptempo music and walls hung with cheery painted plates, make for a more relaxed, tee-and-jeans kind of night out.

Yunnan Kitchen

1721B Washington Street, Boston
(617) 936-4123

If the spicy, sour, and all-around striking flavors of China’s Yunnan Province are new to you, you’re in for a treat at Yunnan Kitchen. Ma la—the numbing, fiery seasoning of Sichuan pepper and chiles—tantalizes the tongue in dishes such as boiled pork in chile oil. Chef Yisha Siu’s fried mushrooms make a satisfyingly crunchy showcase for Yunnan’s love of fungi, while offerings like the crispy shredded potato pancakes channel the region’s penchant for tubers. Cheese isn’t common across China, but it’s an important protein source in this southwest province; be sure to try the fried cheese, a firm goat cheese that the kitchen pan-fries and serves with honey.

Cafe Polonia

611 Dorchester Avenue, Boston
(617) 269-0110

This cozy restaurant is the crown jewel of Dorchester’s Polish Triangle—“Little Poland” between Boston Street, Dorchester Avenue, and Columbia Road. One of the only sit-down eateries serving a Polish menu in the city, this tiny spot has been cooking hearty fare like dill pickle soup, kishka (blood sausage), and sobieski (breaded chicken cutlet) since 2002 in what feels like a family dining room (the founder carved the furniture by hand). I love ordering the Polish plate, a tasting platter with bigos, a meat and cabbage stew; stuffed cabbage rolls; pierogies; and kielbasa.

Krasi

48 Gloucester Street, Boston
(617) 536-0230

I thought I was familiar with Greek food—until I dined at Krasi, a wine and meze bar where lesser-known dishes take center stage. Curate your own starter board from a selection of cheeses and cured meats you won’t find at your average grocery, like Kalathaki Limnou (a soft sheep’s milk cheese from Lemnos island) and octopus mortadella. Then, go island-hopping with regional dishes such as skioufichta, a cheesy and creamy Cretan pasta; or bourdeto, a saucy fish dish hailing from Corfu. “Krasi” means wine in Greek, so it’s no surprise that the selection of Greek wines here—from rare vintages to piney retsinas (made with actual resin)—is the second largest of any U.S. restaurant. (That’s why the seats at the marble-topped bar are some of the best in the house.)

Ba Le

1052 Dorchester Avenue, Boston
(617) 265-7171

This takeout-only restaurant and market has been slinging banh mi and selling Vietnamese pantry staples in Dorchester’s Little Saigon for more than three decades. There’s frequently a wait, which means more time to peruse the ready-to-eat cases—sticky-rice treats and pillowy steamed buns, anyone? Everybody should order what the bakery does best: banh mi. Choose from a variety of meats, like pork floss or barbecue beef, then watch a sandwich pro generously layer up your order fresh.

Muqueca

1008 Cambridge Street, Cambridge
(617) 354-3296

What to eat at this Inman Square restaurant? Moqueca, of course—a Brazilian seafood stew brimming with fish and shrimp that’s heady with the scent of tomatoes and coconut milk. Cooked on the stove in a clay pot, it’s especially popular in Espírito Santo, the southeast Brazilian city from which owner Maria de Fatima Langa hails; now, she’s introducing the dish to Bostonians in nautical-themed quarters that always feel relaxed and rarely get too noisy or crowded. Try the moqueca “Bahia-style,” enriched with palm oil and coconut milk, for a particularly rib-sticking take. 

Row 34

383 Congress Street, Boston
300 District Avenue, Burlington
314 Main Street, Cambridge

If you’re looking for fish, shellfish, and crustaceans—what Boston visitor isn’t?—Row 34 keeps things simple with all the New England classics on your to-eat list. You would be remiss not to start with sweet, plump Island Creek Oysters from Duxbury Bay (owner Skip Bennett was a founding partner of Row 34). Then try what I think is one of Boston’s best lobster rolls, either hot with melted butter or cold with creamy mayo. You won’t be disappointed with the fried oysters and griddled crab cakes, which the kitchen crisps to perfection. Pair your marine feast with a cold beer—the restaurant’s extensive list focuses on drafts from around the Northeast. (You’ll find me nursing a malty, zesty witbier from Allagash Brewing Company.)

Rino’s Place

258 Saratoga Street, Boston
(617) 567-7412

The North End may be our Little Italy—a mishmash of red-sauce joints, pizza parlors, and pastry shops—but longtime Bostonians often head in a different direction for a great Italian meal. Legendary for its huge portions and warm, sincere hospitality, this family-owned and -run East Boston restaurant makes all dishes to order (nothing gets frozen). A creamy tomato sauce spiked with brandy bathes the fan-favorite lobster ravioli, which burst with fresh crustacean meat. You can also expect deeply flavorful Italian crowd-pleasers such as linguine Bolognese and pollo Parmigiana—and to leave with a lot of leftovers to enjoy.

Tawakal Halal Café

84 Massachusetts Avenue, Stratton Student Center, Cambridge
(617) 418-5890

Somali-born chef and owner Yahya Noor opened Tawakal Halal Café, located in MIT’s Stratton Student Center, to pay homage to the East African food he grew up eating. The Tawakal plate—crispy chapati strips cooked in an herbaceous tomato sauce—is a must-order, and don’t leave without trying the saffron-scented biryani with tender chicken or flaky fish. The restaurant also bottles its mango-habanero hot sauce, which I drizzle over everything from rice dishes to pizza. 

Woods Hill Pier 4

300 Pier Four Boulevard, Boston
(617) 981-4577

Most of what comes out of the kitchen here—be it blueberries, pork belly, or lion’s mane mushrooms—is grown 150 miles north at The Farm at Woods Hill, which the same owner, Kristin Canty, operates. The thought that goes into sourcing is mirrored in chef Charlie Foster’s menu, which spotlights local raw-milk cheeses, grass-fed proteins, and seasonal local produce. The “Caesar-style” salad makes an unexpected but delightful vehicle for grilled chanterelles, and it’s impossible to eat just one of the urfa pepper-scented lamb ribs. Back in the day, this waterfront stretch of South Boston was mostly industrial, but now, the shiny, newly renovated Seaport District is one of the fastest-growing neighborhoods in the city. Be sure to ask for a window table to admire the harbor views while you eat.

Mahaniyom

236 Washington Street, Brookline
(617) 487-5986

Before Thai childhood friends Chompon Boonnak and Smuch Saikamthorn opened Mahaniyom, Bostonians had few spots to sample dishes like nang kai (deep-fried chicken skin) and plaa hed (an herbaceous grilled mushroom salad) were out of luck—but not anymore. Eschewing the choose-your-protein format and customizable spice level common in Thai American restaurants, this joint focuses instead on shareable small plates with unapologetically bold flavors. Start the night with a Deasy Lemonade—a mocktail made with butterfly pea tea—and don’t skip the steamed bread dipped in pandan custard for dessert.

Puritan & Co.

1166 Cambridge Street, Cambridge
(617) 615-6195

From the moment you sit down, this Inman Square restaurant feels like a celebration of New England, from the rotating seasonal gems grown on chef Will Gilson’s family farm in Groton to the farmhouse-chic accents like wooden liquor cabinets and slat-back chairs. It’s also a reminder that New England fare isn’t just baked beans and fried seafood—it’s always evolving. The menu echoes regional staples but comes with modern, seasonal touches: Think crab cavatelli topped with calabrian chile-seasoned breadcrumbs, a shrimp starter seasoned with black garlic and crispy pickled shallot, and a seafood tower that comes with ceviche. 

El Peñol

54 Bennington Street, Boston
(617) 569-0100

Colombian-born owner Marina Balvin came to Boston more than three decades ago, but it took her several years to open her own place in East Boston (called “Little Colombia” by some). Locals agree: It was worth the wait. A case in point is Balvin’s bandeja paisa, a combo platter piled with rice, carne asada, chicharrón, plantains, arepas, and fried eggs—so enormous it could easily feed a small family … or one ravenous Celtics player. Wash down the mega-meal with a fresh tropical juice like soursop and passionfruit. If taking the T out east isn’t in the cards, consider dropping by one of El Peñol’s newer outposts in Brookline and Revere.

Flour Bakery

Multiple locations

Every Boston dweller seems to have a key memory revolving around this beloved mini-chain. Mine is eating one of chef Joanne Chang’s famous sticky buns the first time I ever visited this city, and a decade later, its pecan-studded, caramel-topped decadence still stands up to its lofty reputation. In fact, it’s hard to go wrong with any of the sweet treats here—I’m also partial to the light-as-a-cloud coconut cream pie and the maximalist carrot cake (it’s got raisins, walnuts, and candied carrots). For a nourishing pick-me-up between strolling the Freedom Trail and catching a Red Sox game, go for a savory option like the roast beef sandwich on fluffy focaccia (Flour’s take on a Massachusetts classic), or try one of the daily specials handwritten on the chalkboard. No matter where you go in Boston, there’s a decent chance you’re just a baseball throw away from one of Flour’s several bright, airy locations.

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At the tip of Cape Cod, on a narrow strip of land 60 miles out to sea, lies Provincetown, Massachusetts—the end of the world (or, at least, New England), and the place I’ve called home for close to two years. Locals might call me a “washashore,” but I feel like I’m exactly where I’m supposed to be.

That’s because Ptown is (per capita) the queerest town in the country and one of the most sought-out vacation spots for anyone on the LGBTQIA+ spectrum. It’s a place of extraordinary natural beauty (the dunes! the beaches! the gardens! the architecture!) as well as a playground for freedom and pride. The main drag, Commercial Street, runs the length of the town along the bay side and is home to the majority of the restaurants, clubs, shops, and galleries. During the summer, it overflows with people of all flavors of gender expression, kink, and sexuality.  

I landed in Ptown after 20 years in professional kitchens ended in epic burnout. In 2021, mid-pandemic, I sold Willa Jean, my restaurant in New Orleans, and headed north. Love was waiting, as was eventual heartbreak and, ultimately, recovery and healing in Ptown. 

I’m not sure if it was the sunset G&Ts with friends on the beach, the impromptu clambakes, or the slices of pizza I devoured in the street after raucous nights out, but eating my way through the city has taught me that to be a queer person in Ptown is to be part of a community. Every restaurant and bar contributes to this spirit, and these are some of my favorite places.

Nor’East Beer Garden

206 Commercial Street

The Nor’East Beer Garden is an unassuming outdoor space on Commercial Street that serves some of the best food and cocktails in Ptown. That’s because you never get bored: The culinary “theme” changes each season; this summer, it’s “light Italian,” which means you can savor dishes like mushroom pâté, burrata with fried dough, and minty brown-butter mussels. 

Sal’s Place

99 Commercial Street

Sal’s is by the water in the West End, which makes for spectacular views. Cash-only and often difficult to reach by phone, Sal’s is worth the trouble of getting a reservation, whether you’re booking dinner with friends or a date. Don’t skip the cauliflower Caesar with baby romaine, which I love to order alongside the charred octopus with garbanzo beans and smoked chile oil.  

Relish

93 Commercial Street

This inviting little bakery in the West End makes a variety of breakfast and lunch sandwiches—great for a handheld meal while strolling about, or as beach picnic fare—but I always go for the pastries. Spring for a wedge of key lime tart, or grab a cookie or a slice of coffee cake.  

Tea Dance at the Boatslip Resort

161 Commercial Street

Shirtless muscle gays, margarita-sipping drag queens, straight vacationers who love to party—Ptowners of all stripes congregate every afternoon at the ultimate pregame called Tea Dance (or just “Tea”), held at the Boatslip Resort from 4 to 7 p.m. The legendary bartender Maria reigns over the right side of the bar, the end closest to the water, and will happily start you off with the Planter’s Punch, their official cocktail. 

Strangers & Saints

404 Commercial Street

After Tea, many revelers flock to Strangers & Saints, housed in an incredible 1850’s Greek Revival homestead. The Ken Fulk-designed interior, and well-made cocktails make for a dependably enjoyable second stop. The food goes well beyond basic bar snacks with dishes like meatballs with salsa verde and cucumber kimchi (my go-to dish), which pair nicely with the charred shishito peppers or spicy Moroccan carrots. Eating at Strangers & Saints feels like being welcomed into the home of someone with impeccable taste who loves throwing dinner parties.

The Mayflower

300 Commercial Street

Long before Provincetown was an LGBT+ mecca, it was a Portuguese fishing village. Remnants of that past can be found at the Mayflower, where traditional Portuguese flavors endure in dishes like the Portuguese kale soup, made with spicy linguica sausage and red beans. Its obligatory sidekick is an order of garlic bread, and if you’re still feeling peckish, a dozen steamers, a Cape classic of brothy soft-shell clams that you dunk one by one in melted butter. Family-run with a no-reservations policy, the Mayflower has an old-school diner feel with a down-home friendliness to match. They also happen to make the best Manhattans in town.  

Irie Eats

70 Shank Painter Road

Provincetown has a large, vibrant Jamaican population—many first arrived as seasonal workers and wound up making Ptown a year-round home. A little off the beaten path is Irie Eats, which offers spicy Jamaican food that fuels my summer season. My favorite dishes in the regular rotation are the curry goat, jerk chicken or pork, salt fish, and oxtails—all of which come with rice and red beans, and slaw. It’s a grab-and-go vibe, but they do have a small outdoor seating area to soak in the sun (and the flavor). 

Pop + Dutch

147 Commercial Street

My personal “best sandwich shop” award goes to Pop + Dutch. Their slogan is “Sandwiches. Salads. Lube,” and their tiny market selling vintage, often slightly titillating textiles and art only adds to the appeal. The shop carries everything you need for a day at the beach or pool, including sunscreen and, yes, lube. The fridges are stocked with fresh potato salad, pimento cheese, chicken salad, dolmas, and a variety of drinks including a great Arnold Palmer. But the sandwiches are the main event (lately, I’ve been loving specials like turkey topped with Cool Ranch Doritos and ranch-flavored mayo). In the morning, they make a mean scrambled egg sandwich on brioche, but slugabeds be warned: It’s only available from 9 to 10:30 a.m.

Crown & Anchor

247 Commercial Street 

The grande dame of Ptown is Crown & Anchor, an entertainment venue that sits in the center of town. Housing six bars and entertainment venues, a restaurant, a pool club, and a hotel, it caters to visitors and locals of all types. In 2021, it got new owners who were determined to turn the complex into a safe (and profitable!) space for queer artists, musicians, and chefs, among others. The restaurant concept changes daily, while the oyster bar is open seven days a week. Brunch (Thursday through Sunday) is hosted by yours truly and features a New Orleans-meets-New England menu. Expect my famous biscuits and gravy, plus live drag performances fueled by talent and fantasy. 

Lobster Pot

321 Commercial Street

The bright neon lobster sign, one of the Cape’s most recognizable images since 1979, welcomes stampedes of seafood lovers to the Lobster Pot. Tanks of fresh lobsters? Check. Ocean views? check. Consistently friendly service? Check. The plan of action here is to venture upstairs to the “top of the pot,” snag a seat at the bar, and kick things off with a perfect bloody mary. Then, it’s lobster rolls all around—or, for the lobster-averse, a wide-reaching menu of all sorts of fish and shellfish that you can order pan-roasted, grilled, stuffed, baked, blackened, fried, and more. There are also to-go dishes around the corner at Lobster Pot Express (5 Ryder Street). 

The Red Inn

15 Commercial Street 

Happy hour at the Red Inn is peak Ptown. From 2 to 4 p.m. daily, you can enjoy a raw bar menu, cocktails, and wine specials—all on a deck overlooking the beach that’s blessed with the best natural light in town. If oysters won’t cut it, chase them with heartier dishes like panko-crusted shrimp with sweet chili sauce, bacon-wrapped oysters, or shrimp remoulade salad. 

Helltown Kitchen

338 Commercial Street, Unit 3

Legend has it that Provincetown, because of its remote location, used to be a hideaway for smugglers and pirates. That’s why Puritans began calling it Helltown, a nickname that inspired the name of this restaurant that blends international flavors with New England ingredients. There’s truffle-scented, South American-spiced lobster risotto studded with peas and mushrooms. And if lobster isn’t it for you, Helltown does an incredible pork vindaloo that comes with mango chutney, basmati rice, and naan to sop it all up. 

Provincetown Brewing Company

141 Bradford Street 

Provincetown Brewing Company is fueled by community activism, and its business model reflects that. Not only does the brewery donate 15 percent of proceeds to LGBTQIA+ and Outer Cape causes; it also buys from queer-owned businesses and farmers. I’m big on their artichoke-cheese dip and jerk chicken sandwich, which I wash down with a flight of whatever PBC beers happen to be on tap. Keep an eye out for themed parties, trivia nights, “fag-out Fridays,” women’s night, and even a “yappy hour” for dogs. 

Atlantic House

6 Masonic Place

If Tea is where the party starts in Ptown, the Atlantic House (aka “A-House”) is where it ends (or at least where last call happens). Most patrons have no idea that the establishment is a contender for the oldest gay bar in America, having been in continuous operation for over two centuries. It draws the biggest crowd of any bar in Ptown and has three spaces: little bar, macho bar, and the dance floor, where the lights are low, the music is loud, and little by little the clothes seem to disappear. 

Spiritus Pizza

190 Commercial Street

Spiritus pizza is an old faithful and has become the staple stop between the party and the after party—so much so that the hour from 1 to 2 a.m. is called “pizza dance.” Spiritus is the only late food option in town, and after last call at the bars, the pizzeria fills up with hungry crowds, who overflow onto Commercial Street to revel in what’s essentially a nightly pizza party. There are three New York-style slices: cheese, pepperoni, or Greek (cash only!).  

Chalice at the Land’s End Inn

22 Commercial Street

Chalice is a new favorite wine and beer bar on the manicured lawn of the Land’s End Inn, which sits atop the tallest point at the end of the Cape. Complete with a fire pit and stunning views of Provincetown and beyond, it makes an ideal pitstop on your way to Tea or pre-dinner cocktails.  Look out for the pink martini flag: If you see it flying, then Chalice is open and well worth the uphill walk.

The post Where to Eat and Drink in Provincetown, Massachusetts appeared first on Saveur.

Joyce Kutty likes wicked sharp knives and catch-of-the-day dinners. 

As a child, the 33-year-old metalsmith learned to fish the waters off Point Judith, Rhode Island, and helped her mother prepare Tamil- and Malayali-style curries in their kitchen in East Providence. Now, after a stint crafting Harmony engagement rings for Tiffany & Co., Kutty has moved on to more utilitarian objects inspired by the ancestral housewares her father carried home after visits to family in Kerala, India: Hand-forged spice spoons, hammered thali bowls, nadan kathi knives, and koduval coconut cleavers.

Her own boning and filleting knives reference the same graceful curves of these more traditional South Asian blades. “Both my parents are from coastal states,” she says. “So we eat a mostly fish diet. Making knives that can carve into fish and the things we grow stems from the root of my culture and upbringing.” Providence chefs Scott LaChapelle of Pickerel and Robert Andreozzi of Pizza Marvin are fans of her designs (Andreozzi is her occasional fishing buddy). “Part of my practice is to get out on the ocean and harvest seaweed from secret fishing spots [to create] a saltwater patina on bowls.”

On days away from her studio, she rises before dawn to cast for bluefish, stripers, and bonito. Oily mackerel is a particular favorite for those family curry recipes, which mingle deeply oceanic flavors with the sting of chiles. With every fish she brings home, Kutty also slices off a little piece for crudo to taste its essence. And the ones that get away? “Some for us, some for others, some for next season.”

Recipes

Keralan Fish Curry

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Sri Lankan Fish Curry

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Earlier this month, the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch program downgraded American lobster to its red list. According to the organization, which rates seafood based on criteria of sustainability and environmental impact, consumers should avoid red-listed seafood because its harvesting poses a threat to wildlife or the environment. In the case of American lobster, also known as Maine lobster, the at-risk wildlife is the North Atlantic right whale, among the world’s most endangered whale species (fewer than 350 remain). In Maine, the red designation—the latest in a series of setbacks to the industry—has taken locals from lobstermen to politicians by surprise, and they’re pushing back. 

The hazard that the lobster industry poses to right whales mostly stems from the design of the fixed-gear fishing equipment, which involves a buoy that connects to underwater traps or pots by vertical rope. Whales can get tangled in this rope, which, along with vessel strikes, is a leading cause of death for the animals. As bad luck would have it for the marine mammals, their habitat range overlaps with large commercial fisheries that use this type of fishing gear, including the Gulf of Maine lobster fishery (referring collectively to the thousands of commercial owner-operators catching lobster off the state’s coast).

According to Curt Brown, a commercial lobsterman and wholesale lobster company Ready Seafood’s marine biologist, the Maine fishery has overhauled many aspects of its harvesting practices to minimize risk to right whales. Improvements, some of which came as federal requirements, include installing weak links in the gear that would allow a tangled whale to break free, reducing the amount of rope in the water (which has eliminated more than 30,000 miles of line throughout the Gulf), and adding markers to their gear to help trace the location of any entanglement. “We believe strongly that we’ve done everything that we need to do and we’re still doing more. We’re doing our part,” says Mark Murrell, founder of seafood distributor Get Maine Lobster. By Brown’s estimate, these safety updates have collectively cost Maine lobstermen tens of millions of dollars—and he says their efforts have paid off.

However, a recent court decision indicates those efforts aren’t enough. In July, U.S. District Judge James Boasberg ruled that the federal government violated the Endangered Species Act and the Marine Mammal Protection Act by neglecting to sufficiently protect the critically endangered North Atlantic right whales from potentially fatal entanglements. The National Marine Fisheries Service, also known as NOAA Fisheries, is also pushing for stronger right whale protections, last year initiating a seasonal ban on lobster fishing gear in a nearly 1,000 square-mile stretch off the coast of New England, among other new regulations. (The Maine Lobstering Union sued the federal government in response, but recently dropped part of the lawsuit). 

Maine’s lobstermen believe these setbacks to their livelihood place undue blame on them. “We continue to get pushed for something that we are not the cause of,” says Brown. “There have been zero documented mortalities of a right whale in Maine lobster gear ever, and there have been zero documented entanglements of a right whale in Maine lobster gear since 2004.” According to a 2021 data analysis published in the journal Oceanography, right whales are foraging less in the Gulf of Maine and increasingly shifting to the Gulf of St. Lawrence in eastern Canada. “Climate change and warming sea surface temperatures may be forcing right whales to spend more time farther north than they used to,” explains Jack Cheney, a researcher with the University of Washington’s School of Aquatic and Fishery Sciences. Maine fishermen, many of whom may not have even seen a right whale in years, “don’t understand why they’re getting penalized,” he says. “There’s no smoking gun.”

Still, that doesn’t mean the marine mammals are absent from Maine lobster management zones. Many North Atlantic right whale deaths can’t be attributed to any human activity in particular. According to a recent Seafood Watch press release, the majority of entanglements happen unseen and thus can’t be linked back to a specific location or type of gear. As a preventive measure, the program designated numerous fisheries using fixed-gear equipment in the habitat range of the whales as unsustainable. Multiple commercially caught species in addition to lobster were impacted, including black sea bass caught by pots in New England. Even though that fishery doesn’t operate during the times of year when right whales are typically in the area, Seafood Watch still downgraded the fishery’s fixed-gear harvesting method to red, Cheney explained. “They’re taking an extremely precautionary approach.”

But this approach “makes it appear that all of these fisheries are on equal footing,” Brown argues, pointing out that the Maine fishery has taken more steps toward sustainable fishing than many others along the eastern seaboard. Since the advisory team released its draft assessment in 2019, representatives from Maine, including Brown, have met with Seafood Watch assessors multiple times to present evidence of the specific measures the lobster industry has taken. “I think all the information we presented fell on deaf ears,” says Brown.

Cheney, too, was surprised that the entire Gulf of Maine received a blanket rating. “I don’t know why they couldn’t potentially rate specific areas along the Maine coast with different ratings,” he says, pointing out that Norway received 13 distinct ratings for farmed Atlantic salmon. 

Though Seafood Watch has issued controversial ratings before, red-listing the Maine fishery has impacted an iconic industry that not only is deeply associated with New England culture but also has a strong generational component and vocal stakeholders. (The Maine Lobster Marketing Collaborative has launched a petition urging Seafood Watch to reconsider its rating.) “They [Seafood Watch] just kind of dropped it on people,” says Cheney, pointing out that the industry wasn’t given time to adjust its practices before the red designation was issued. 

It’s uncertain if advance warning would have ultimately made a difference in the rating. One risk-reduction solution, which NOAA officially proposed in July, will likely take years to implement: a transition to “ropeless” fishing gear. This equipment, which the Center for Biological Diversity is urging the federal government to require for trap fisheries by 2026, involves various methods of deploying and retrieving traps without the need for vertical lines or other ropes in the water.

Because ropeless fishing gear would no longer be visible from the ocean surface, the entire industry would have to integrate into a new GPS-based system. “Ropeless gear would [almost] solve it all,” says Cheney, but he recognizes how drastic of a technological jump the conversion would entail. “It’s like having bicycles and being like, ‘Okay, everyone’s going to switch to Teslas.’” The shift would also alter the very framework of the industry. “People use their extra traps to mark their territory so people don’t fish there,” explains Cheney. “If you get rid of that system and have just ropeless gear, it’s going to kind of throw the whole culture into disarray.” Not to mention, all the new technology would be a heavy financial burden for the lobstermen to shoulder—and make it cost-prohibitive for many young would-be entrants to join the industry. “There’s not enough federal support for the industry to make a major shift like they’re calling for,” says Ethan Morgan, the general manager of seafood restaurant Portland Lobster Company.

One positive change Cheney hopes will result from Seafood Watch’s red rating is to generate investment around projects aimed at further improving the sustainability of Maine’s lobster-catching industry. “I do think ropeless gear can happen eventually,” Cheney says, but notes that more funding and research and development are necessary before state-wide adoption will be within reach. “You can’t just change an industry overnight,” adds Murrell, and in the meantime, “people have families to feed.”

What long-term economic impacts Seafood Watch’s designation could have on Maine’s lobster industry is still unclear. “Red listing plants the seed in people’s minds that Maine lobster is not sustainable,” says Brown. Some retailers and restaurants, including Whole Foods and Red Lobster, consider the ratings in their sourcing policies. Murrell, however, mentions that since Maine lobster was red-listed, he’s only received one email from a customer asking about the designation. But no direct sales impact so far doesn’t mean the industry won’t feel the pinch going forward. “It may carry over into where people decide they’re going to be vacationing next year,” says Morgan, pointing out that lobster season draws significant tourism to Maine.

Cheney emphasizes that there are valid arguments on both sides of the debate over whether the Maine fishery’s red rating is warranted. “It’s just such a complicated situation. I don’t think there’s any hard, fast, right answer,” he says. “Expecting people to know the solution is unfair and unrealistic. It’s so complicated—and unprecedented.”

“You have thousands of people out there on boats,” adds Morgan, “trying to do the right thing.”

The post Why Did a Seafood Watch Group Red-List American Lobster—and Cause an Uproar? appeared first on Saveur.

This is not entry-level fish,” says a smiling Michael Benevides, standing in what has to be the United States’ largest purpose-built bacalhau chamber. It occupies one end of Portugalia Marketplace, the emporium Benevides opened with his father, Fernando, six years ago in Fall River, Massachusetts. The glass-enclosed, temperature-­controlled monument to salt cod is just one corner of the ambitious family market, but it perfectly represents the store’s mission to serve the local Portuguese community and to celebrate and share the culinary heritage of Portugal.

Benevides was born in 1977 on São Miguel, the largest island of the Azores, a chain of Portuguese islands more than 800 miles from the mainland. But when he immigrated to Fall River with his family at age 2, he settled into an already well-established community. The Portuguese have had a strong presence in southeastern Massachusetts since the 19th century, when many immigrated for jobs in the booming whaling and textile industries. Both of his parents worked in Fall River’s textile mills, and his father started a small import business on the side out of their garage. After word of the operation spread among the Portuguese community, he moved into a larger warehouse space to focus on Portugalia full time.

For its first 25 years, their customer base was almost entirely Portuguese. But Benevides became convinced that Portugalia could reach a larger audience. When a former textile mill came up for sale, Benevides envisioned something to rival international markets in New York like Sahadi’s, Zabar’s, or Eataly. But first he had to convince his father that quadrupling square footage and bringing a design-conscious shop to a small former mill town was a sound business decision.

RELATED: 6 Portuguese Pantry Staples We Can’t Stop Using

Serendipitously, Benevides’ plans for expansion coincided with a boom in Portuguese tourism from the U.S., and, with it, an increase in Portuguese cultural literacy and enthusiasm among non-Portuguese Americans. These days, Portugalia is humming. There are shelves of high-quality olive oils, tinned fish, jams, and the country’s largest selection of Portuguese wine. There are heaps of locally produced Azorean breads, like massa sovada (similar to challah) and bolos (fluffy disks similar to English muffins), alongside piles of smoky chouriço, linguiça, and morcela (blood sausage).

“I wanted to create a place,” he says, “where people would feel like, ‘Okay, wow, this is a really different representation of Portugal than we’re used to seeing.’ ”

The post How America’s Best Portuguese Market Ended Up in a Small Town in Massachusetts appeared first on Saveur.

1. Start in Lubec with breakfast at Fisherman’s Wharf, where, true to the name, you can watch fishermen bringing in the day’s catch from the deck. Don’t miss the fresh jam and the fried dough, a surprisingly light and fluffy treat that gets drizzled with molasses or maple syrup.

Fisherman’s Wharf
69 Johnson Street, Lubec, Maine
207/733-4400

2. Drive into Canada for a tour of Campobello International Park, FDR’s summer retreat. Tour the home where the family summered, which is furnished almost entirely of original pieces, including the original stove and kitchen tools the family used.

3. Quoddy Bay Lobster is our pick for lunch—lobster rolls are an obvious choice, but the fish chowder, haddock sandwich, and chicken salad are also standouts.

Quoddy Bay Lobster
7 Sea Street, Eastport, ME
207/853-6640

4. Visit the farm stand at Tide Mill Organics (open from 10–2pm on Saturdays) and pick up some of their fresh vegetables, yogurt, or grassy, flavorful milk.

Tide Mill Organics
91 Tide Mill Road, Township of Edmunds, ME
207/733-2551

5. About an hour west you’ll find Bartlett’s winery, where Bob and Kathy Bartlett are making nuanced fruit wines and a fragrant small-batch rum. Our favorite is the Blueberry Winemakers Reserve—an oaked wine that’s super fruity and full-bodied, with notes of vanilla on the nose and a dry finish.

Bartlett’s Winery
161 Chicken Mill Pond Road, Gouldsboro, ME
207/546-2408

6. Go for some small plates at Fiddler’s Green, where Chef Derek Wilbur serves an eclectic mix of global foods mixed with Maine specialties, like house-smoked mussels with mushrooms, salt cod fritters, and plenty of local oysters.

Fiddler’s Green
411 Main Street, Southwest Harbor, ME
207/244-9416

7. Stop off at the Liquor Locker in Southwest Harbor for some hard-to-find Maine beers to take home (or to enjoy as a nightcap), like Marshall Wharf’s Sorachi Ace Pale Ale or Baxter Brewing Co.’s Daughters Of Poseidon.

Liquor Locker
11 Seal Cove Road, South West Harbour, ME
207/244-3788

8. If you finish the evening early enough (and you still have room), head to Morton’s Moo for a scoop of grape nuts or ginger ice cream—both local favorites.

Mornton’s Moo
9 School Street, Ellsworth, ME
207/266-9671

9. Stay the night at the Blue Hill Inn and go for a breakfast of local treats like blueberry pancakes or crab quiche with eggs from the inn’s own chickens. Or go for coffee and the Platonic ideal of a sticky bun at Millbrook Company Restaurant and Bakery.

Blue Hill Inn
40 Union Street, Blue Hill, ME
207/374-2844

10. Drive out to Nervous Nellie’s on Deer Isle, where sculpture artist Peter Beerits has created a fantastical town named Nellieville straight from his imagination, peopled with life-size figures made of wood and metal. On the side, Beerits and his wife Anne make jams and chutneys in the nearby kitchen, in flavors from blueberry to hot tomato.

Nervous Nellie’s
598 Sunshine Road, Deer Isle, ME
207/348-6182

11. Have dinner at Aragosta in Stonington, where chef Devin Finigan is turning out beautiful, subtle dishes like local oysters grilled with fennel butter and housemade charcuterie. Eat out on the deck, where you’ll have a spectacular view of Stonington Harbor.

Aragosta
27 Main Street, Stonington, ME
207/367-5500

12. If you have room for dessert, trek over to Quietside Café on Main Street. Go for a slice of their monstrous blueberry pie, or if you’ve had enough blueberries, the creamy key lime tart with chocolate cookie crust.
Quietside Café
360 Main St
Southwest Harbor, ME
207/244-9444

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On a Monday morning last fall in in Cambridge, Massachusetts, a group of inquisitive visitors to Curio Spice Co. stood in a semi-circle and passed around small jars of spices. Many of the offerings were familiar to the group: they work together at Oleana, one of the country’s foremost Middle Eastern restaurants, and they know their coriander from their cardamom. But then a new jar circulated and, one by one, like a string of old Christmas lights illuminating bulb-by-bulb, everyone’s facial expression changed: eyebrows arched, eyes widened. This was something new. “It’s like stars on my tongue!” someone exclaimed. “It’s like Szechuan Froot Loops!” offered another. It was sansho pepper, the electrifying Japanese cousin of Szechuan pepper, which tingles taste buds with bright, citrusy heat. Most common in Japan as a counterpoint to sweet, fatty unagi, sansho is not well known in the U.S, at least for now.

Presiding over this ceremony was the gently smiling Claire Cheney, who founded Curio in 2015 and opened it as a brick-and-mortar shop a year later. Her store is a curiosity cabinet stocked with familiar and unfamiliar herbs, spices, and accessories from New England and way beyond-Greek mastic, Maine sea salt, Madagascar wild voatsiperifery pepper, mortars and pestles, pepper grinders. One of Claire’s wisdom teeth is displayed in the shop as decoration; somehow it doesn’t look out of place.

Cheney has been interested in spices since she was the Local Foods Coordinator at Oberlin College’s student-run co-op. She became particularly enamored of saffron, going so far as to self-published a book on the crimson threads. Later, she worked as a manager at Oleana herself (and its sister cafe, Sofra), where here she was slinging sumac before Ottolenghi was a household name. All of this exposure to spices alongside previous experience in the specialty coffee industry got her thinking: do those who go out of their way to buy fair-trade coffee and single-origin chocolate do the same for spices? And even if they wanted to, could they?

Sensing a hole in the spice industry, Claire moved to Bangkok in late 2013, where she lived for roughly half a year, traveling throughout the region to develop relationships with small spice producers. It was this trip that provided the framework, both logistical and ideological, for Curio. She got to know cinnamon, turmeric, and mace growers in Sri Lanka and visited Kampot pepper farmers in Cambodia. When she came back to the U.S., she set to work crafting spice blends influenced by her travels, using ingredients largely sourced directly from small farms-organic and female-owned whenever possible. The small, light-filled shop on a busy Cambridge thoroughfare followed, as with further sourcing trips, including Japan, for that sansho pepper. Which brings us back to the semi-circle.

The Oleana staff came for a general spice tutorial, smelling, sampling, and asking questions, and Cheney was a fount of information, speaking passionately about seeds, pods, and berries the way others discuss wine. She proved points about freshness and terroir by offering side-by-side sniffs of two paprikas, one produced in southern Massachusetts and the other in California; so stark was the difference that they could almost be different products entirely. She then produced a pair of Sri Lankan turmerics, one pre-ground, the other processed in-house from dried slices of the bright orange rhizome. It was no surprise which was the more fragrant of the two.

After her students departed, Cheney worked on a batch of her newest spice blend, Edo, inspired by the Japanese seven-spice blend shichimi togarashi. Her sourcing trip to Sansyou Farm in Wakayama Prefecture, south of Osaka, yielded dried yuzu peel in addition to the sansho pepper, and both turn up in the mix. Also present are crushed chile Japonés, orange peel, black sesame, poppy seeds, Sri Lankan ginger, pickled sakura (cherry blossom) powder, and dried seaweed from Maine.

Cheney’s riff on togarashi strays from tradition, yet pays homage to the spirit of experimentation she found in Wakayama, where Sansyou’s husband-and-wife owners tinker with unusual blends and funky applications of their crop. Her first tastes of the farm’s sansho came, unexpectedly, mixed into lemonade and sprinkled atop Camembert. She says she left the farm with new relationships, sourcing partners, products and, most importantly, inspiration. Selling individual spices is an important part of what Cheney does, but, she says “I think there’s a certain amount of whimsical creativity that is really fun about spice blends.”

The back of Curio’s modest storefront is where Cheney does all the toasting, grinding, packaging, and labeling for her own blends. First in the grinder for the Edo blend went the sansho and orange peel, the combination of which released an unbelievable sharp citrus scent through the whole store. In a large mixing bowl, they were then joined by the remainder of the constituent parts. It was a colorful, playful mix, combining spices sourced ethically and directly from a small family-owned farm with ingredients from around the world, plus a nod to New England—a perfect distillation of all that Cheney wants you to explore.

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